rear main leak

[Kim K Kaiser]

Per Tony,  i am starting a new thread on my adventures with this rear main leak,

i posted a video on a 390 engine of a rear main seal replacement but the engine was out of the car,, gave some insight as to sealing and materials etc.

One of my neighbors has a hoist,(yeah!) and has allowed me to use it,, makes it a lot easier than rolling around on the asphalt in the street and is enough higher that its not too confining under there.  I did have to pay attention to the lift points though as it seems you cant just put those lift arms wherever you want..

As of this evening, I have taken the exhaust loose, the steering loose, and the starter is out,, took about 4 hours to do that.  I guess there is nothing earthshaking to report on any of this.  Tomorrow, I will take the pan off and proceed from there.

To be clear before proceeding.

the 63 manual says to insert the bearings in there slots, do not pull off wax coating as that will aid in insertion.  I do not see any wax on my gasket, so my guess they had it on the old ones.,, 

Now, the question here is,, do i add a touch of oil or something to aid in that insertion process,, the manual does not suggest it, as i describe above, or, just insert dry, as is..

it does say apply rubber cement to cap and block mating surfaces, and gasket ends, but that is the only reference in the 63 manual regarding lubricaitng the seal for installation,,  so is that correct?? insert dry??

the you tube video says to use lubridation after insertion so it wont be dry on start up, so i plan to do that as well.

i will try to take a few photographs of things once i get the pan off,  i m sure most have seen the underside, but its my first venture in there and post them for reference.

[Kim K Kaiser]

[Kim K Kaiser]

The above are buggers from oil screen.  Mostly silicone. Some orange looking stuff im gueessn came from oil pan gasket as i see it on the rim there.  

Also, i got the upper seal out w a lot of cautious tapping,  once it popped out of other side, it slid on out.  

I will work on jb suggestion as well. 

[Kim K Kaiser]

i got the upper in,, it was tough, a piece of rubber came out as i pushed it forward, i used grease to facilitate the insertion,, i hope it doesnt have a bad effect as its on the top,,, 

the manual says to turn the crank one full run to test for it binding,,  that is why it says you take the plugs out,,   but i couldnt turn it before i put in the seal so i am wondering if there is a process or procedure or do you just have to get on it pretty hard to make it spin??

[Kim K Kaiser]

Hw do i turn the crank shaft manually

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

Put a bolt into the front of the crank and turn it with a ratchet., Pull the plugs out to allow the engine to turn over easier.  With the plugs out, you may be able to grab the crank pulley and turn it. 

[Jason Edge]

As Russ said you can remove the plugs and probably just turn with your hands. I grab the fan belt with both hands. I cannot remember any engine that wasn't froze up I couldn't turn in this manner.   If  you didn't eat your Wheaties this morning, find some young buck to help you turn it. Another one of those things you can over think.  

[Kim K Kaiser]

Ok.  As inam closing this up.

What is the minimum closing up i can do to see if i hv an installtion error leak or just a 'its gonna happen on these old cars leak"  my rrason for concern iscthat upper seal.  I replaced it, but i think a little got skimmed off being so tight up there,   or is it much less likely to leak because of its topside position.

Can i just put the oil pan and start back on.  Crank for couple minutes to let oil circ and wait,  or do i hv to put exhausr , steering. etc all bk on and drive to see if leak materializes and to what extent.  ?

Again, sorry for these kinds of questions,  firstvtime ive ever pulled the oil pan on a car, 

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

You can start the car with the exh pipes off. It wont hurt a thing.  The reasoning Tony doesn't is a concern over the valves bending from cold air hitting them.  That is a concern if the exh manifolds are off, but yours are on., Air will heat up coming into the exh port to where no cool air will hit the valves. 

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

Shouldn't have to prime the pump, as it is already primed. Oil may have drained out of the pickup tube, but there is plenty of oil in the passages and pump & filter to move oil around until the pickup does its job.  Just watch the oil light. 

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok,, 

 i will be starting the engine after putting the starter back on,, oil pan back on.

While i had the car up, i replaced the rear rubber fuel lines and changed out the solenoid i had purchased a while back,,

plugs go in tomorrow, and a start up, 

now,, i have a couple concerns,, 

1, since i know that eh upper seal suffered some seal shaving upon installation, will it be most likely, i will continue to have leak,, being its on the top, wasnt sure if it was as big a deal as the lower one.

2, if i crank it, how long should i run it, minute?  10 minutes?

3, also, giving the upper seal has the shaving off.. what are risks to crankshaft,, will i hear metal banging, or noises, or will the engine just leak profusely, in a very quick manner?

again, thanks,,,,

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

Did you use the special tool to insert the upper seal? It stops the shaving of the seal. but you will more than likely have a lean now.  No damage to the crank, but a small leak will be present. 

[Kim K Kaiser]

Hi,  they didnt supply one.  I was expecting one based on your prior experience.  I guess when they changed the model from when you posted your model number they tooknit out,  

Anyway,  the installation went good for 3/4 of the insert.  The last part it got hatd.  Inused grease to help w the insertion.  Maybe it dried or thinned too much to easily complete.  

I will b cranking later today,  an see what happens