CE48C163-3EA8-49F3-A330-405E73E56815.jpeg83F44B1E-C16F-4283-BC79-293E377FAE62.jpeg
So been trying to figure out this front brake problem I’ve been having,maybe somebody can shed some light on the problem. End of last season I changed the Brake shoes, springs, cylinders . Brake hoses, adjusters. And had the drums cut at a machine shop. Using good quality parts Raybestos Bonded shoes, bendix cylinders & Hoses.Centric springs and all seemed well, till the front end started shaking when braking at speeds over 40mph. Or coming off the expressway THAT WAS ROUND ONE.....
So the drums were not getting hot, or dragging,it seems I had them adjusted correct , I have one of those tools that measures the drum and shoes,it works very well. I took the drums to the machine shop and had them skinned again and I changed the brake shoes to a Rivited type of brake shoe all went together nicely.I also checked the front end, tie rod ends ,ball joints etc. all is good. Also took the front wheels in to get re-balanced .bought new tires last year . STILL having the same problem ..... anybody got any ideas ?
Tags:
85D769B2-88FC-4BC6-8D2F-CAF02B9DBB52.jpeg
measured with this tool, and made final adjustments with brake spoon
Ray, Did you seat or bed the brake shoes as noted in section 6. Break-In of New Linings on page 6-7 of your 1964 Shop Manual? I always "seat" all new brake shoes or pads once installed. I scanned thru all the replies and didn't see where you stated this was done. If not, might be worth giving it a try. After, seating them might try readjusting them and seating one more time. I know on my big ole Escalade it sometime take 10 or so moderate rapid stops to get thing smooth out. Different technology on the shoes, but same principal. I remember doing this with my 64 CDV about 15 years ago, and never had any issue with the aftermarket shoes. Of course parts change in 15 years!
The weather here in Chicago has been crap lately, waiting for it to clear up. Plan on taking it out for a ride and see if I can get theses brakes to set in . I will find an open lot and do some reverse shots, Then do the forward process and see how that works out , I’ll get a little more aggressive with it. Lol
Thanks for all your help guy’s, I’ll let you know the outcome in a day or two . Weather permitting...
In preparing to drive the nearly 700 miles one way to the 2019 Grand Nation in Louisville, I thought it might be the time to tackle the brake issue again.The previous 2 sets of shoes I tried were Raybustos; one set riveted and the other bonded. As I stated earlier, they both cause severe shaking when braking over 40 mph. So bad in fact I ended up putting the old brake shoes back in and have been driving with the old shoes for the last 2 years. At the time, when I inspected the Raybustos shoes, they were cracked, flaking and glazed. I don't know if I got a bad set but clearly they did not hold up to the heat of stopping these heavy cars.
This week I picked up a new set of brake shoes from NAPA; bonded shoes #TS-127. During the install I did all the correct procedures following the manual even torquing down the wheel bearings to 30 ft-lbs; baking off 1/4 turn. I took the car out for a test drive and to my disappointment I had the shaking again but this time noticeably less then the last time I changed the shoes. After rereading this post I realize the one thing I didn't do, as Jason stated, on page 6-7, BREAK-IN OF NEW LININGS! After many "moderate" (really more then moderate) stops above 40 mph, the shaking became less pronounced. Next I took the drums off, cleaned shoes as the manual states removing all the lining dust, sanding the shoes, re-torqued the bearings, and adjusted the brakes. I took the car out again for some more "moderate" braking. Now the shaking was almost non existent! I still have a very slight vibration when braking over 60 mph but I'm hoping it will go away on my way to the Grand National. I hope my story will help someone else.
Bob, "Bedding" the brakes is a must. I usually do about 10 medium to hard stops after I install any new shoes or pads. I'll usually run up to about 60 mph and bring to a complete stop, not slamming on the brakes, but giving the pedal a firm push until stopped, then repeating. Think of this like breaking in an engine where the rings "seat" against the piston walls. I am glad breaking in the shoes and other steps reduced the vibration. Looks like you are on the road to smooth sailing ... or smooth braking in your case!
I think with the disc pads it trues the flatness of the surfaces with each other, but with the shoes it aligns the curvature of shoes to drum. I would guess any bit of out of alignment, curvature-wise, might cause a bit of vibration at different speeds or under different braking conditions.
Sooo, last couple of days I took the car out for a ride, went to a nice open lot and got a little more aggressive on the braking. Forward 3-4 times and reverse 3-4 times 35-40 mph. It seemed that it brought my pedal to a more firm braking, then I took it on the xpressway got it up to 70mph for a bit ,got off at the exit and started braking at 50 mph and it was a lot better than it has been, I pulled over by a shopping mall on the way home and got out to feel the wheel hubs to see if there were getting hot ,noticed the right rear was really hot all the other wheels weren’t really too hot at all. So when I got home I took off the right rear wheel and adjusted the brake . Took the car out for a 1 1/2 hour cruise , back on the expressway and when I exited very minimal shaking. So I’m thinking either I wasn’t aggressive enough on the proper way in setting the brakes, Or the first set of brake shoes were defective, I went from bonded type to riveted type....who knows . All I do know is I’m braking straight and not shaking. Thanks for all the advice guys.
Started by Logan Robb in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Russ Austin 11 minutes ago. 2 Replies 0 Likes
A little late posting, but figured some may enjoy seeing it post holiday to keep the winter blues away!My wife, Annie, and I had a great time with the Fleetwood before the salt hit the roads here in…Continue
Started by Jason Edge in Restoration Discussion. Last reply by Chris Codd 11 hours ago. 3 Replies 0 Likes
Scanning thru the Feb issues of Hemmings I found a listing for Gary's Steering Wheels. I didn't think I had heard of them but looked on our …Continue
Started by Jason Edge in General Discussion. Last reply by Jason Edge on Friday. 6 Replies 0 Likes
Now that I am past the radiator project (and a couple of house projects), I can pick away at the my 64 Coupe de Ville Dino a bit. Today I installed the left driver side cad plated fender skirt…Continue
Started by Jason Edge in General Discussion. Last reply by Logan Robb on Thursday. 4 Replies 0 Likes
I have very limited space in my 3 bay garage with the left and right bay used for storage and work tables, etc leaving the narrow center aisle for my 1964 Coupe de Ville Dino. Six years ago I bought…Continue
Posted by Ray Schick on August 22, 2024 at 6:25pm 2 Comments 0 Likes
I bought this seat material thinking that it’s…
ContinuePosted by Dave Fehrle on March 23, 2024 at 3:23pm 8 Comments 1 Like
While checking my Carter carb with engine running, I took the air cleaner off and there was a very loud hissing sound of air. I placed a piece of paper over the carb and it didn’t move up or down, is this normal?
Posted by Chase on March 21, 2024 at 5:55am 0 Comments 1 Like
Hey everyone, has anybody done a Vintage Air AC/Heat setup in their car? I want to bypass the old vacuum setup and go with a Vintage Air Gen 2 model. Before I get started, does anyone have any experience with this? (Which model to go with, do’s and dont’s, etc.) It looks pretty involved. Any and all info/pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
February 16, 2025 from 7pm to 8:30pm – Zoom
0 Comments 0 Likes© 2025 Created by Jason Edge. Powered by