IN addition to the main seal leak,,which i am going to tackle again tomorrow,

i also have a leak in what seems to be the steering gear.  I have checked to connections from the pump, and its dry on top, but there is always a drip on the bottom of this part.  Idled, it leaks on to the exhaust pipe,, moving, it apparently gets blown back or drops behind the pipe.  pretty much the entire bottom of the part is wet or gunky,,

I read the manual on this thing, and it seems to have about 100 parts, bearings, washers springs, clips, etc.  There are pages and pages of information on this particular item..   

Is this a common leak, is it a repairable problem or is a replacement part required.  I read multiple topics in the help section and it looks like a rebuilt item is the way to go on this,  Are any other parts required for this.  i noticed one fellow said he had to get a coupler or something once he got it out and stripped it somehow.. so is there more to replace other than the gear once you remove it.. 

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i just checked auto zone,, new ones are 668.00

I have a large stock of VG, non-leaking steering gears for $85, or $75 to Chapter members such as yourself. They are HEAVY and shipping will be a bit but much less than your price on a new one. If interested email me at jasonedge@nc.rr.com 

oh, good,, when i get to it next, i will contact you.

Are there any other auxiliary parts that need to be purchased like gaskets or rings or something that i need to purchase as part of a new installation?

Your local auto parts store should have a Pitman arm puller to buy or rent or for loan. I think I picked mine up for about 15 to 20 bucks.  Once Pitman arm is pulled off gear, push it aside, completely remove the bolt at steering gear to steering column coupler (ragjoint) at steering gear side, pry apart a bit, disconnect the 2 fluid lines at gear.  You can leave the pitman arm attached to drag link.  Gear is held to frame with 3 large bolts thru side of frame. Steering gear is 32lb so be ready to support it as you unbolt it.  Pull the gear back and off the rag joint prying the rag joint forward.  When I part cars out I have already pulled the column and rag joint off the gear, so you just need to be careful as you pull off the gear not to break the masticated rubber that connects the two halves. As Mark noted be ready for some power steering coming out.  You can tape the power steering pressure and return line hoses with electric tape or plug or cap by other means to prevent some of the spillage at least out of the lines. I know you are up in Yellowstone Park (I think!) but if you have problem getting a puller I can go on Amazon or stop by the local auto parts store and pick one up for you when you get ready to pull and replace the steering gear.  

well, you'll need a pitman arm puller and a way to get the drag link disconnected without destroying it.  You can use a small puller to disconnect the drag link, or a pickle fork, but the pickle fork will damage the seal on it.    Once you get the linkage disconnected, it's cake.  Remove the pinch bolt at the input shaft, and use a screwdriver or wedge to open it up a bit, and it will slide off.  Then just remove the lines and the bolts through the frame and it will come right off.  Use a pan, lots of fluid will come out, and if you take off the lines and move the pitman arm or input stub, it will shoot out oil and get all over.    And it's heavy.  so if it starts dropping, let it drop, don't let it land on your fingers by trying to catch it.  Best thing is to support it before you remove the bolts to the frame.

ok,  thanks,, i will have to get a good picture with description of those parts so i can follow along with your description,

Not to take a sale away from Jason but you should be able to find someone to rebuild your existing steering gear if you are able to remove it.

Ian, I would much rather see him use use and rebuild the one he has.   Just to add, per the later Master Parts Books these were interchangeable for 1962 to 1966 Cadillacs, and 1967 to 70 except Eldorado.

When getting the car up,, do i need to allow the wheels to hang or can i use a ramp so i can get under there,,, i noticed from the rear main seal repair, it was best to have the wheels free, so that when i put the steering piece back on the frame, it would line up properly and i could get the screws back in...

i'd say you just answered your own question.  
I've always done it wheels up, I figure you'll need to take off the driver's side tire to get to the screws easily, so at least you'll need one side up, but both is better to move the steering linkage around.

To save you a bit of time, here are some things to know:

first, the nut on the end of the pitman shaft is 1 5/16th.  most people don't have that size socket until they do a steering box or FWD axle.   You can use a 34 mm socket, the ones they sell in parts stores for axle nuts.    I've also seen 1 3/8th on Saginaw boxes, but I think that started later on.  

second, you will want to break the pitman arm nut loose first, before removing any lines.    If you take off the lines first, when you turn that nut, all the fluid will shoot up in the air, and if you're under it, you're gonna get a blast of power steering fluid cologne and it will go all over the motor, exhaust, and inner fender.  

third, you will need a pitman arm puller if you're using a new box or if the used one you're using doesn't have the pitman arm installed.    Most auto parts stores will loan you this.  The pitman arm isn't likely to come off with just the puller very easily, and you can break the puller if you try to just muscle it or put a pipe on a breaker bar.  If it doesn't break loose immediately (trust me, it won't), then you tighten the puller as much as you can, then get a hammer and hit the top of the puller right on the bolt head part.  Then get the wrench or ratchet and turn it, you'll notice it loosened a bit.  If it gets tight again, get the hammer and tap it again.    The pitman shaft and arm are taper fit, so once it's loose it comes off quick.  This too should be done while the lines are on.  You can take the box off without removing the pitman arm, if you separate the arm from the drag link, and then remove the arm on the bench, or have someone else do it, if you can't find the tools

Mark, the pitman arm nut has been 1 1/2" on all the steering gears I have pulled. (With a caliper they will give you a reading of about 1 15/32") Still, this is a socket or wrench many may not have. While I have a set of large sockets and large wrenches, I usually break out the very large adjustable wrench.  A large adjustable wrench like the one I have (18" long, nuts up to 2.25") is a good investment since there are quite a few large nuts on these old cars (e.g. tie-strut bar, AC Lines, pinion nut, etc). Of course nothing like a 6pt socket on these nuts but the large adjustable wrench will be more versatile if you are going after one tool.  I will also say that while the nut will give you some resistance don't be scared of it. I'm using 1/2" impact wrench when I back them off, but can feel the initial resistance.  Inspect your tool closely, and make sure the flanges are equally secured behind the pitman arm, before backing it off. I've backed over 50 off with never breaking that particular tool... still have the same one I bought in the late 90's as I recall, but these rentals/loaners may have been used hundreds of times.  

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