oil pump gasket replacement & ps pump replacement

[Kim K Kaiser]

I got my parts in to replace gasket on the 63 cdv oil pump that is leaking.

reading in the manual, it says to remove engine front covers described in 2a.

that is a BUNCH of steps to remove the gasket and the two sets of gears,   or am i over reading that and should i just stick to the disassembly while its on the engine, those 4 cap crews look easy enough access, and proceed to disassemble then reassemble under 5b and 6a  

secondly, i received the PS pump and two new lines.. pump off ok,, pulley off ok,, but those hoses back on the steering column are a real bear,, any suggestion to get those loose, only thing at this point i can see to do is cut the metal piping at at the nut and slide a socket over it,, is there a easier access to pop it loose,,  i have put some nut buster spray in it to sit all night,, see if any easier tomorrow.

Sincerely

Kim

[Jason Edge]

Use quality flare nut wrenches on brake lines, power steering lines, and any other tube end nuts.  You will be much less likely to strip the nut. I never use anything but flare nut wrenches on brake and power steering tube nut connections.  Unless you are dropping the oil pump gears completely out you should be able to pull remove the cover, and reinstall the new gasket. Look at the cover closely and have it planned flat if they gear has worn a groove in it or you have nick or burrs in the flat mounting side. Removing the cover with front cover still on engine will probably be messy so be ready for some oil. Going back you will want to prime the pump gears from the oil filter bracket. Have fun!

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

Leave the cover on and just take the 4 bolts off.  You will need to reprime the pump by adding oil into the oil filter neck.

The wrenches Jason is talking about are called line wrenches.  You can use a pair of vise grips to break the torque. I do not recommend cutting the line, as metal shavings will fall into the gear box and cause problems with the seals.  

[Jason Edge]

Just to add, flare nut wrenches are usually a bit thicker than box end wrenches to give them extra rigidity and less prone to flexing. So bottom line, don't go cutout out the outer section to make up your own flare  nut wrench ... invest in a good set!

[Kim K Kaiser]

well, after a day or wrenching in a hole  what felt like a mouses ass,, i finally got the hoses to break on the steering column, pump came off,, new pump went on, got new line wrenches,, rigid and with the swivel ends.. the 5/8 seems to be tight and not leaking, the 111/16 is still getting some seepage,, then,, the new ignitor came in as I figured it had to be burned up after a night of apparently, key being on,  so,, taking a break from the power steering pump,, i put the new igniter on,, easiest thing done yet,, as i had done it prior.    

hoping for greatness, turned the key, and all i got was the engine turning over and over and over and over. no indication of sputter, maybe a start, a semi start, nothing,, i could drain the battery on this routine,  so i thought well, put in some gas in the carb, see if i can get anything,  turned it on,, Nada!! nothing,, no fire of any kind,,, soooooo,, either the ignitor was not bad, and now i have backup ignitor,  or something else is going on,,  

the day before, it hd started perfectly,,   could the oil i put in the carbutore gummed up something??  it wasnt much, couple table spoons at most,,,, 

any thoughts from here going forward,,, ?? exasperated!!!! haven't gotten to oil pump yet

[1bt7pektvt387]

Many years ago I bought crowfoot sockets that worked with a 3'8" ratchet and extension to make the job of changing the power steering pressure hose easier and it was a very worthwhile investment. They let you get the proper grip on the flare nut like the wrenches Jason recommended but by using an extension and ratchet you can get much better leverage.

[Kim K Kaiser]

i tried that but my crowfoots were nt of good quality an kept slipping,

[Kim K Kaiser]

i did some googling as a followup,

and i checked my plugs, i dont see any spark when i pulled the plug and hooked it up, and turned the engine

so i thought maybe it was the coil in the petronix system, replaced the coil,, still no start up, no fire, just a steady over and over and over,, no indication that it wants to fire, just turn over.

so i just dont know where to go next,, as i would think i would need a little fire,, i think i can smell some gas, but i just dont know,,  hands in air!!!

[Kim K Kaiser]

oops,, didnt put the spark plug on metal to test it,, so back to the car,,

[Kim K Kaiser]

checked it gain,, I DO HAVE SPARK from plug

so,, next step for starting diagnosis,  

[2o93f8rdftyzj]

Best way ever to test for spark.

Get your wife to hold the exposed end of the plug wire while you turn the motor over with the key.

If she just stands there and say nothing, you have no spark.

If she jumps and screams, you'll know you had spark. How much she jumps and swears at you is a good way to measure how good the spark is.

Unless your wife is as dumb as an ox, she'll only fall for it once. My first wife, let the whole street know we had spark and that her husband was a prick.... LOL

[3n49omug8n28i]

Just to confirm what Jason and Russ and Tony and Ginny and Jason said, get good quality flare nut/line wrench/basically box ends with a part cut out, as the cheap ones will strip a nut or bolt faster than an adjustable wrench. Ask me how I know

[24ro8f5mbs2jc]

One of the best tool makers in the world is Bacho. You will never go wrong with any of their tools. Price is twice compared to what others cost. Still worth it.

Bahco Flare nut wrenches