My '64 De Ville won't start

[Michael Vogler]

Gentlemen,

I've been having a problem recently with my car stalling at a stop light.  It happened three times.  The first two was just a quick restart and the engine fired right up. The third time, I had difficulty starting her. I finally go her started and limped her home.   I suspect a failing fuel pump and replace it.

The first day, the car ran great.  The next day, she stalled out again when decelerating and at a stop light.  I got her started and home.  

This morning, I started her cold and she started right up.   Drove her to the donut shop get together and then she wouldn't start initially.  Got her started and home.  At home I turned her off, the tried to restart her.  No luck.  She just cranks over.   There is spark at the coil and at plug 1 (I didn't test the other plugs.).   There is also fuel with pressure in the fuel filter bowl.  See pick.

Here are YouTube links with the videos of attempting to start the Car, and one showing fuel shooting into the intake ports.   Any thoughts what the problem might be, and running?   Perhaps a float problem???

Thanks for all your input!!!

https://youtube.com/shorts/waQBirxJO-k?feature=share

https://youtu.be/fsRfgz6ha8Y

https://youtube.com/shorts/G8I5xjeTGNk?feature=share

[Michael Vogler]

[C. Van Tune]

I agree with Tony on where to begin.

The way it's trying to start and then coughing dry and going dead sounds like out of fuel to me.

That squirt from the accelerator pump doesn't look very strong. (But might be the camera angle.)  I'd look at that, plus a blocked filter, jet, hose, anything that has fuel running through it.

Also agree with Tony to not start the engine with the air cleaner off. It's tempting to do so, when troubleshooting, but one flash fire and you'll wished you'd taken the 30 seconds to put the air cleaner back on.  

Let us know what you find out. 

[Jason Edge]

Check that the resister wire to the ignition coil is good condition and not broken.   When you have ignition switch in crank position the yellow wire from solenoid switch is sending a full 12 volts to coil for max voltage. When engine starts and  you put it in "run" position the ignition coil gets current from the resistor wire which drops the voltage down to about 9 or 10 volts.  If you car cranks then shuts off when  you turn switch back to run that is often a sign of a bad or broken resister wire.   I have heard from several people the last year or two that had this issues. They replaced or repaired the resistor wire and all was well. Might not be your problem but it seems to fire up then shut itself off instead of running.

[Michael Vogler]

Thank you, everyone!

It seems to me that the problem is fuel starvation, but Jason's recommendation to check the coil resistor wire also makes sense.   I'll get to work on these things today and keep you all posted.  Thanks again.

Mike

[Michael Vogler]

Fuel lines are clear and the fuel pump is working.  Fuel filter is clean as is the fuel screen inside the carburetor fuel intake port.  There seems to be ample fuel going into the primary carburetor ports when I engage the accelerator. 

The yellow wire from the ignition coil to the starter (as much as I can see) does not appear to be broken, certainly not at the coil or at the starter solenoid.   However, Jason may be on to something.  Now that I'm paying more attention, the engine does seem to fire, but the moment I release the key from the start position to the run position, the engine stops.  I'm beginning to think perhaps there is a short or broken wire somewhere around the ignition switch...???

As I look at the wiring diagram, there is a pink (white/red?) wire from the ignition switch to the fuse block to the coil... Hmmm..

[Jason Edge]

Look at the brown resistor wire, not the yellow wire. The resistor wire carries current to ignition when ignition switch is in “run” position. It ties into the pink ignition wire behind firewall but it is usually out in the engine bay with the brown resistor wire where you have issues such as frayed, broken, burnt wiring.

[Michael Vogler]

Jason,

I noticed that there was a brow resistance wire connected to the coil along with the yellow.  Both appear to be in good condition.   Do have any thoughts about how I might test the ignition switch?

[Michael Vogler]

Gentlemen,

I’m almost certain it’s the ignition switch.  I turned the key to the start position.  The motor cranked over and seemingly was starting.  When I released the key to the “run” position.  The engine stalled out.  I tried again, but this time I did not release the key completely, but instead let the key turn to disengage the starter, but fully to the “run” position.  The engine continued to run, without the starter.  Then, when I release the key, the engine stopped.  Seems like the problem in the switch.  Any thoughts?   
Now, where do I get a new switch? 🤣

[Jason Edge]

It is easy to bypass the ignition switch per our Ignition Switches - Hot Wiring and Attaching Aftermarket Ignition S... Help Page. As stated in the description:

In summary just disconnect the ignition switch and make a 3 way jumper and connect red to pink, and touch purple to crank, then remove purple and should continue to run.

[Michael Vogler]

Lol.  Yes.  I’ve now learned to hotwire vintage Cadillacs!!!  I‘ll jump the switch and report back.  

[Michael Vogler]

Seems likely it was never the fuel pump, but rather a faulty ignition switch…I’ll know soon enough when I jump it.   But hey, now I have a new fuel pump, too!!!  There’s always a silver lining to be found somewhere!

[Michael Vogler]

My first classic Cadillac hot wire!  When bypassing the ignition switch and the engine keeps running. 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/etj9JfHvIHw