Blower Motor Replacement Tips and tricks

[Logan Robb]

Todays project on the 64 Fleetwood was replacing the old and worn out blower motor. The old one worked but squealed like a pig and would get really hot. I suspect the bearing or busing was completely toast. 

I set out to replace the blower motor WITHOUT removing the airbox or the hood. 

There are certain things that I would be just fine NEVER having to do again-this is one of those items. 

I started by jacking the car up and set on jack stands at the front. Removed the hubcap and the tire on the passenger side. Easy enough. 

Then I removed the inner fender liner. This was very simple to do and much easier to see when the tire is off. Last time I tried this, I was looking in the wrong area all together. Secondary task, cleaning this area of the car will never be easier, so take some time to do a good wipe down of everything and check for rust and take care of what needs doing in there while you still have the energy to do so. 

Next, you should be able to contort your hand in the small opening and feel the underside of the motor, the cooling tube for the motor and the one power wire. Disconnect the wire and then pull the cooling tube out. Careful with he tube, it could be brittle, mine was still soft and pliable. 

Now this is where I would make sure you have the power to move on, for some reason, I just couldn't get the 5 little tiny screws on the underside of the motor. after about 20 min of fiddling for each screw, I hade it undone. I have seen others say that you can get to the screws easier with the fender inner line off. I did not find this to be the case. I used every 1/4'' extension I could find and was able to get all 5 screws out from UNDER the car. Not thru the inner fender. You are going to NEED not want, a good light while doing this. Try not to loose any of those little guys either. 

I ordered this fan motor from Rock Auto More Information for FOUR SEASONS 35587 (rockauto.com). I don't think its available from them anymore, but check around it could be. The reason why I say this is because the cooling hole for the motor is in the same spot. I have seen others say that the port is in the wrong location. This one was correct. One modification I did need to do was place about 3 washers on the shaft under the cage. Without those washers, the cage would have rubbed on the top of the motor. I also put just a dab of oil on the bushings. I don't know if this helped or hurt, but figured maybe it would help in the long run. 

Once you get the motor out, swap the cage over if need be and then prepare for the longest most frustrating time of your life. 

Getting the first screw started will be a challenge I don't wish on my worse enemy. I laid on my right side under the car so I could shove my arm in the small opening provided by removing the inner fender liner. I then used the same very long extensions to put the screws back in. I used a small dab of Lucas Red N Tacky grease in the end of my socket to hold the small screw in place. A magnetic end would have worked better, grease was the best idea I could come up with at the time. 

Once you get the first one in, the other are a piece of cake. Way easier going in than coming out. 

Reassemble all in reverse order and you should be good to go!

I did take the two back spark plug wires off as well just to make it a little less busy in the area, you may not have this issue. 

The A/C works great in my 64 now! Was it worth it, yes. I should have done this in the spring when it wasn't 95 degrees out, perhaps that would have made this a little easier on me. 

Anyhow, this was long winded, but I am sure someone out there will be able to use this!

Logan