over weekend, i found some oil leaking from behind the valley pan. As some of you know, changed all that out back in oct or so and noted the oil pressure sithc was so low to the block that is seemed to inhibit a full flush connection, but didnt think much of it until i finally had some time to do so more searching for that leak, (again from prior many post).
Anyway, i had purchased a NOS from Russ and i could see a big difference in the construction, so i decided to change the valley pan out again get a presumed flush fit and stop that leak out the bak of the valley pan..
so i got every thing changed, noted the valley pan quite leaking (yeah!) at least for now, and went out for a ride this morning.
as i would approach a stop sign or hit brakes to get to almost a stop,, my oil light would come on!!!! as soon as i tapped the accellearor, it would cut off immediately,,
i thought WTF now..
so, i did some drive testing,,,, here is what i found.
driving,, hitting gas, hard, or intermittent or driving at 70, or just coasting from 70 to almost a stop,,,no oil light.
zipping around town, as one would typically drive,, no oil light, EXCEPT, when i almost got to stop and had to hit brake to fully stop at a sign or light,,but again, as soon as i hit accelerator, even just a tap,, the light would disappear.
Since my other sensor or since i never had a oil sensor light problem before,,, can someone shed a little light on this please.. again, this never ever happened prior to this change out,
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well,, on a beautiful day in MS,,, and Christmas eve,, with no real commitments, i go the oil regulator changed out with the new spring and the washer.
initial start up, 38 psi as the engine warmed up, and got to 1/4 on the heat gauge, which is my running temp, i was about 31. i took the car out, hit the flat spot and the car ran at about 30 to 32 psi at 35 mph,
as the car continued to warm up, and i hit highway speeds of 70 or so.. the psi was at a bout 2100 psi.. which, is about what my diesel runs at at 70 or 72.. dont know if there is a correlation. anyway, again, as i drove, to town, went to watering hole, general day of driving and then when flat spots popped up and traffic was no were t be found, i wound again drop down to 3 mph,, at that speed, my psi was at about and maintained pretty much 1800 psi.. and that was pretty much where the psi parked, unless i got back up to the 50 to 70 mph where it would go back up to 1900 to 2100 psi,
SO,, thats the story on a fine Christmas eve day,
Merry Christmas to everyone,,,,,
Merry Christmas, Kim. I am sure the 2100, 1900, 1800 psi's are typo's. Keep in mind you can always go back and edit a post once it is submitted. I'll take a guess and extrapolate that the 30 to 32 psi at 35 mph would peg you about right at the 30 mph shop manual spec. If you do not hear clatter or other noises I would enjoy the car.
Yes, sorr . You are correct. I was thinkin rpm, however.
18, 19, 21 are the correct psi's after the car gets really heated up after extended driving. The only time it stays atthe manual spec is at initial warm up to driving temp.
Thanks for all the patience
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