while out for a cruise and to a car show, i was heading home, car started sputtering,, would go, then no feel ing of gas, would go a while, then sputter . i started thinking of quickest way home with out to many stops, got about 6 blocks and it died.
it sounded or felt like a car does when you run out of gas, but, that is not possible as I just put gas in it about 2 hours earlier, so i have half a tank, but that is the feeling,, sputtering, then go, then sputter some more, then go,, then died,
walked home, going back in the truck see if i can get it started with some fuel in carb and sputter it home,
it is not running hot, no other particular symptom.
would his be most likely fuel pump or blocked fuel filter,, ??
anyway, thought on the above while i go and try to get er home.. I'm just glad i did nt suffer embarrassment of it croaking at the car show as i drove through, but then again,, some one there may have known what it was,, oh well,,
old cars i guess
would it be reasonable to say —-you have the problems with the car sputtering at. slower or medium speeds and not as much at the higher speed ( 50-70 ) ?
When it sputters —do you find yourself step on the gas more to clear the sputtering out ?
It has been at all speeds, medium and at higher,, really has no preference when it appears. Sometimes, on a 20 or minute ride through town, it wont sputter at all.. I just cant seem to produce the condition. it just sort of comes up out of nowhere.
and yes, to get past the sputter or gap in power, i usually give it a good push on the gas pedal. The day it happened the worst was a hot day, it happened several times between each stop sign over about a 10 block stretch and it actually cut out and and the engine died on me. that was worst case,, next couple of days, not one sputter,,
i have a feeling —the carb is not working as it should be —( having the needles and seats leaking internally and overflowing the float Bowls— thus flooding the intake manifold and the engine — only at times -causing the sputtering to happen ( engine is Flooding and having a problem burning off excessive fuel )
flooding the engine with —different quantities of gas -based on how much fuel you may be using to supply the engine with its fuel needs
The sputter should —only be happening when the carb is putting more gas than it should be —into the intake manifold
This condition could have been somewhat responsible —for your very first problem with flooding the engine when you had the car on an incline back a while ago
just my theory —-but it is making good sence to me
Rebuild or replace your carb
rebuilding yours is the easier path —than going with a new carb ( especially with a 63 and a TV rod )
we are getting closer to the machine being reliable —my friend
Tony and all.
I have watched several rochester carb rebuild videos, doesnt look hard, just hv to take time and remember where screws and brackets and balls and pins go.
My newest questiin. When i order rebuild kit, what is needed. Are there multiole models?
I have attached several photos of my carburator with a tag on it. Does this represent a sub model number?
I know very little about the carb you have
I am an expert on the Carter and Edelbrock carbs
I would have the carb rebuilt professionally as they have the tools to properly clean the carbs internal passages in vibrating baths
They will give you back the carb in like new working and looking condition
You would buy the rebuild kit based -on the carbs number
I think stamped on the carb someplace
Not sure what the tag on the carb in the photo is for myself
You want to replace your needles and seats --That are on the stationary side of your float bowls and unscrew ( remove the pin holding the float )
Do the float bowl heights --making both floats the same height
The float should shut off the fuel supply when the top of the float is in line with the top sides of the fuel bowl
Replace all gaskets being sure --You have No Air leaks at all
The accelerater pump must be moving freely when put back together
It will sometime get hung up going back together
There is always a possibility that a float can have a leak and fill with fuel and will no longer float for that reason and need a solder repair
Do clean the heat passages at the top of the intake manifold --opening the two holes there if clogged with debri
Much good luck if you choose to rebuild yourself
Does anyone here have the correct --rebuild kit part numbers --for the Rodchester carb on our Caillacs
Tony. I just found a utube video that shows how to id carberator. There is a metal tag attached w a number on it that tells the style rochester carb. I took that number and did a search and found several vendors that supply all the parts in a kit.
I got one for my Rochester 4GC from Mike’s Carburetor Parts in Chehalis, WA. PN #625. $47.90 plus shipping. I was happy with it.
If you call them with the number on your tag, they’ll get you the correct kit for your carb.
Thanks Mike, that is were i got mine from. It didnt seem to hv the fuel line to carb filter so ordered that as well. Will see how it goes..any tips
A few carb rebuild tips I can think of are:
read the instructions, a few times! Remember that the kit applies to several models of similar carburetors, so there are more parts in the kit then you will need to rebuild yours.
if you’re not good at memorizing where parts go, take pics of the steps. Linkage and TV rod adjustment are important so it’s best not to change them unless you have a shop manual and know the procedures for correct adjustment.
Choose the correct gaskets from the kit (there are several in the kit that are for other carbs). The old gaskets will guide you, but ensure the passageways line up to the holes in the gaskets.
Make a clean space on your work bench to do the job. Watch for the small parts while disassembling. Keep track of them and don’t throw anything away until you have the car running again.
For this particular carburetor, the instructions for the accelerator pump replacement were not clear, at least not to me. Pay special attention to them. Your old accelerator pump, if original, is made out of leather (seriously) and will need to be cut off. That was surprising to me, having never worked on an early Rochester before.
Do a thourough job cleaning everything. Small particles of dirt will clog passages in the carb body and it won’t run correctly. I like to scrape the old gasket material off with a razor blade and then soak the parts in “chem dip” carb cleaner. Make sure it’s clean!
After the chemical cleaning, rinse thoroughly and dry. Blow out all passages with compressed air.
Follow the needle/seat/float adjustments closely. If you have the originalbrass floats in your carb, make sure they actually still float. I there’s fuel inside them, there’s a hole and that’s not good!
Avoid overtightening screws.
Follow the adjustment procedures in the shop manual closely.
Other than that, I’d say the most important tip is to take your time. If this is your first one, don’t sweat it. Carburetors are finicky and tuning them is a dying art, but if you follow the instructions and you’ll be fine.
Bye the way, the symptoms you’ve described with your sputtering would lead me to troubleshoot the fuel supply system first. Dirt/debris in your tank, clogged filter, fuel lines routed too close to exhaust, collapsed lines could cause the condition you described. Also vacuum leaks/poor vacuum, and faulty points or ignition system wiring could be the cause. Go over those before diving into the carb.
I ordered the kit to have it here if i got bored on a full rain day. I recall the prior owner saying it probably needed re doing.. I have watched probably 3 videos on you tube related to the rochester, while basically same, they each point out different t pitfalls,, so it was helpful,, especially hanging that little part on the back instead of trying to get it to bend though,, dont know the name but, sure you know what I'm talking about.
I have also come across a gentleman here in town, has a stellar reputation as a mechanic, has a spotless shop, and about 70 yo, been in business for many years, just re built a 73 eldo here in town for a surgeon. He has agreed to go on a ride with me next week, to feel all the little things i feel, and give me some thoughts and education. While college educated, i am not a writer, so conveying what some things do is difficult over the internet, AND,, i just want a person in there that knows the feel and conditions of these old cars. I told him i would pay him for the ride, as i am trying to extract info, and may not be able to get him to do the repairs, if i can do myself, so his time is valuable to me..
my gas tank is a bit full to drain yet. but found the plug,, gonna drive some today to drop the levels some,, at 13 mpg, doest take too many miles.
again, thanks for all the suggestions to everyone. i am trying to address each and every one to eliminate the problems so i can get her going for a full day of cruising..