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Not sure why they have the brake pedal pressed. I would check on the condition of the upper control arm bushings.
Condition is fine, I check this everytime I went for alignment in a shop.
So I wonder: Did they make a mistake with the brake enganged and trying to adjust the caster while still sitting full weight on its wheels?
To me it makes no sense to keep the pedal pressed
Even if holding the brake and locking the wheel from turning could hold the force of that large strut rod and lock nuts from moving the wheel forward or back as soon as you let off the brake the tire would move forward or back. Keep in mind the tire is already "locked" just by sitting on the ground and it is not like the tire starts spinning when you start adjusting caster in either direction. If in doubt just have them to release the brake and take a measurement.
The only other two things I would think of that would prevent movement of the wheel when you adjust both nuts in or out, would be if your tie strut bushings at the front are busted out (which I have seen on a parts car), or the two bolts that secure the back end of the tie strut bar to the lower control arm are loose or missing. This would be obvious to a novice mechanic much less a tire & front end shop.
For another perspective here is another picture of the tie strut which adjusts caster:
Sammy, As noted in my messages to you, there are 2 top lock nuts to adjust Caster. One behind and one in front of the frame where the tie strut goes through. See picture below. If you just loosen the rear, rearward or the front forward nothing is probably going to happen. If you move both nuts in or out in unison that tire is going to move... it has no choice.
Thanks. As I wrote you, I got the manual and followed every step two times.
Got it.
It was a simple, but strange problem.
Looks like the new alignment platform computer systems shops are using today here in Germany can not
measure in time when caster is adjusted not on top but on the lower arm as on our cars.
Once the measurement procedure is resetted and started again it is possible to do the alignment.
But while adjusting caster you can not see it on the monitor live, have to start the computer procedure
over and over again. Strange, but with this method it worked.
What I could not achieve was +2°.
When lock nuts on the tie-strut are set to max (where the threads end on tie-struts) it was only
possible to achieve 0°.
Test drive was ok, so it's fine for me.
So, I am assuming with the ability to "trick the modern machine" to measure Caster you did not have to adjust the caster to the end of the thread, and is somewhere in between either end. I remember looking at mine after you contacting me and remember 3/4" to 1" thread at the end.
Either way, it is great you got it right!
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