Well, after the tire change, car running good......... then on a pleasure cruise for abour 35 miles to my destination. 25 miles in, back end vibration came back home to roost. I was goung 55 to 65 on the trip. Had to pyll over. Now, im not the type to lose my temper, throw tools, or hv tantrums, but im gettin to my wits end on this. After i pulked over, i felt the hubcake, not overly hot. So i decided to drive on at about 40, as i got miving i pushed on up to 55, not one vibration. So, wtf coukd it possibly be from here.
I have had.....
Shoes changed
Changed cylinder.... twice! First new one was stuck!
Axle gasket replaced
Tires replaced
Had drums re cut,
Whats left?
Tags:
Wheel nuts tight after the tyres were done?
Cost nothing to check 'em.
Emergency brake properly adjusted? Slim chance this is it but maybe?
Are all the bolts around the universal joints tight? Shocks, springs and exhaust are all tight and free of vibration?
Brake hardware in good shape and in correct place, no worn springs or retainers?
I know I have overlooked the obvious sometimes in order to find a particularly nasty vibration. The fact that it is intermittent generally means all is o.k. although once I had a failing rear wheel bearing (1960 Chevrolet) that got quiet and the ride was rock steady JUST BEFORE it cut loose and the entire axle pulled away from the differential. Happened at 50 mph and luckily I was able to drift it into a state police barracks parking lot.
Embarrasing story to tell the desk sergeant when you ask him to call for a tow truck though.
will give them another look
Drive shaft vibrations possibly.
how is the drive shaft tested,, ?? especially since it is so intermittent.
How would you know ??
Thinking about what Russ has suggested.
You may have a slightly dry set of universal cups. I know mine are greasable units and I would expect yours are too. They often get missed, as the nipples point in the wrong direction to see them properly. (Reminds me of a girl I once knew)
Up on car stands and rotate the shaft and see if you can squirt a bit of grease in them. Worth a try, nothing too lose. I have a grease gun here if you want to borrow it.
I will just drop on by for the grease gun
ok, to try and answer all,,
i will try the grease. and test all the bolts The old time mechanic showed me those back in March. I will go the help session and watch that video as well,,
as for the problem
i noticed it back in jan or so,, again, it was intermittent, i thought it was rear brakes sticking as i did find that the cylinder WAS sticking, so i changed it, it was a new cylinder and had to replace.
As I noted from yesterdays drive and the drive when i got it back from tire shop, I got no vibration on the ride from the scope, total, about 20 miles,
yesterday, i got about 20 miles into the drive,, i was chdinging speeds from 50 to 70, just seeing how everything felt. no music on, just listening to car,,
it sort of creeped up, the vibration that is, slowly, then it was going to where i needed to slow to 45 to settle it down,, then decided to pull over to see if my rear wheel was hot again, as i thought it may be the brake again, it got REALLY hot back in jan and feb, but it was not that un reasonably warm yesterday,, SO after sitting for a few minutes, i took off, and had about 10 miles to go, i left it at about 50, no vibration,
on way back i traveled at 55 pretty much whole way, same miles back, no vibration ever occurred,, so, for me, its the intermittent happen stance that is so frustrating..
thats for the ideas,, i will get to them soon
Worn rear lower control arm bushings are a culprit to driveline vibration, as it allows the differential to articulate out of the drive line preset angle.
Dive right in, pull the drive shaft and once that is done, pull the lower rear control arms.
This guy makes NEW rear lower control arms. 2 huge improvements; 1. A boxed design, eliminating flex and twist. 2. Polyurethane bushings eliminating flex and distortion of the bushing. They work, I run them.
Just do a search in here, new rear control arms.
i will look into it, i remember seeing one of the strings on the site about this,,
Following up to day, i took the car for the same trip i took yesterday appx 35 miles each way,, speed primarily between55 and 60,, not one shimmy or shake,,car rides like its on a rail..
that is what is confusing to me,, if its a loose drive shaft or damaged one, or the control arms, wouldnt i be able to reproduce the condition every time i went out and got to certain speeds...if it was a loose or damaged part, just doest seem possible a part under a stress like that wouldnt do the same thing, over and over...
secondly, can i check the looseness or tension on the rear cv joints by only removing it from the attaching points or does the entire shaft have to come off to do all the turning and twisting i watched on the video?
It could be something as simple as Satanic Interference too if the car was ever owned by someone may have been "possessed"
If you remember the movie The Exorcist back in the 70's, the bed would shake like shit, then go calm again, then shake like shit and so on.
Whip it over to the Church of the Holy Starter Motor and have them perform an exorcism on the car and I reckon you'll have it sorted.
No need to thank me, just knowing I've helped, is thanks enough. :-)
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