Pictures and description of my transmission project from July to Sept 2010
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Chris, The pink wire to switch is the 12 volt + feed from the ignition cranking harness. The white wire goes to the transmission terminal. This can been seen in the 1964 Shop Manual in 12-114 on page 12-102. I have zero experience putting a 65 or later THM in a 64 or prior and do not know wiring or other mods needed. Perhaps others here have had experience and can reply.
Chris, The connector on the side was for the kick down switch, a white wire that runs up to the kick down switch attached to left rear of 64 Carbs with the THM transmission.
The 65 THM was changed from the "Buick Borrowed" 1964 THM that needed the adaptor ring to mount to back of the 429 engine. The 65 was revised to mount directly to back of engines had dual Drive Ranges and a couple more internal changes. So the main differernce from 64 to 65 would be the shape of the bell housing that went from Buick pattern in 64 to Cadillac 429 pattern in 65.
and a final response to Jeff's question:
"Jason, The underside of your car is ridiculous! What paint did you use on the frame? Did you paint the transmission pan bolts, or are they new? How did you prepare the chassis for painting? "
I used Rustoleum Engine paint on the frame section I cleaned up and a truck bed spray on lining type paint for the underside of the tunnel. I really like the way the Rustoleum Engine paint goes on. Keep in mind this is just the transmission tunnel section. Still need to work my way around the rest of underside of car. It will not be perfect but presentable.
I used Acetone and my Steel wire impact brush to clean the frame. Bolts are all just cleaned in gas then acetone
continued:
Posted 7/31/2010:
Oh...Im' having some fun. I went over the driveshaft today, and have it hanging from the trusses right now all painted up. I have to say, I've got a lot of paints in the garage and have recently descovered that the rustoleum high temp engine paint goes on really great with no runs, and no roughness in the spray pattern as I've seen with resent duplicolor paints. I also jumped underneath the car and removed the leaking pinion seal, and tomorrow I will install a new seal. I don't have a pinion seal installer but looks like I can make something up for this one time deal. It's like the transmission seals....just bigger, and as I remembered have a new one to go back in.
Posted Aug 2, 2010:
Oh...Im' having some fun. I went over the driveshaft today, and have it hanging from the trusses right now all painted up. I have to say, I've got a lot of paints in the garage and have recently descovered that the rustoleum high temp engine paint goes on really great with no runs, and no roughness in the spray pattern as I've seen with resent duplicolor paints. I also jumped underneath the car and removed the leaking pinion seal, and tomorrow I will install a new seal. I don't have a pinion seal installer but looks like I can make something up for this one time deal. It's like the transmission seals....just bigger, and as I remembered have a new one to go back in.
Posted Sept 12, 2010:
Well. I couldn't stand not having my 64 Coupe DeVille on the road and this weekend I installed the rebuilt and painted transmission. Before I could install it though I wanted to clean up the tunnel and framing where the tranny sits and that took some time but in the end is well worth it. I'm not doing a frame off or anything like that but am going over my car one section at a time.
Saturday I went wide open all day cleaning, getting the tranny up in the car. After the transmission was installed I popped the pan and cleaned and painted it early Sunday morning and had it all installed by Sunday afternoon. I tried to take my time and not be rushed and getting everything back in and installed and for this project everything turned out perfect. This was a rebuilt transmission and when I pulled the pan it looked brand new. In the car it shifts absolutely perfect...nice and firm.
I've posted pictures starting with the one you see on the right. (Just click and then scroll to end to see new pictures.) You can also see my dirty engine! LOL. I had thought about pulling the engine also but am really glad I went ahead and installed the transmission and got all of that mounted back up in the car right. with a rebuilt transmission, cleaned and painted driveshaft, new Pinion Seal in the differential. and gas tank detailed with new hoses, I can now focus on the engine later this fall. With the transmission secured and in place I will just unbolt the engine and lift up and out with tranny in place.
I was having major withdrawal not having my car drivable and it sure felt good getting it back on the road today. I tried to take quite a few pictures from underneath. It really makes you feel good when a project like this goes right and you see the results of your efforts! Jason
Also just to add...I took a 2" by 6" board and countersunk a large 7/8" bolt that I could sit on my floor jack to lift the transmission. You still have to balance the transmission on it, but no worry about the board sliding around. That cost me $0..... not bad considering the $300 transmission Jack I was looking at!
Copied from Transmission thread on old site:
Posted 7/24/2010:
Well, I''m really missing having my 64 Coupe DeVille on the street, and as some of you know pulled the perfectly fine Turbo Hydra-Matic out of it a few weeks ...or was it months....back, to replace with a rebuilt TH transmission. As most of you also know I've had a part time parts business for 15 years and the main purpose is to pull in parts cars with nice parts for my personal car and to maybe make a couple bucks on the side selling all the other parts. A few years ago I pulled in a parts car with a just rebuilt transmission (car was a rust bucket and engine was blown but had a rebuilt transmission) and well., my transmission was fine and listed it for sale for a while, but knew what I had and wasn't going to give it away. A while back I decide I've got a rebuilt transmission...why not use it!
First, I wanted to paint the transmission the original Cadillac Blue as they came from the factory. This weekend I finally got some time to get the transmission really clean, and prime and paint. I've posted pictures of the transmission as I'm cleaning it up, after I've primed it and just after I've added 2 coats of paint.
I tried to think of the best way to paint the transmission, but ended up realizing the best way is to put it up on a large storage bin with wheels, and paint all but the bottom pan. I will later remove the pan, once up in the car, and paint the pan. It was 100 degrees in Raleigh today so took advantage of the heat to help cure the paint. I will go back and add the trans line fittings, new seals, regulator, etc, and post a couple finished pictures.
Just to add, While the transmission was already in pretty clean condition, I cleaned before painting with everything from my wire impact brush, to Acetone, to the pressure washer.
I used Hi Temp Engine Primer, and before I painted did a side by side comparison between the Bill Hirsch Cadillac Blue and the Eastwood Cadillac Blue and found the Bill Hirsch paint went on thicker with one coat, but was more prone to running and went with the Eastwood paint. As far as I know Eastwood does not sell the engine Cadillac engine paint in spray cans anymore, which is sad, as they were about 1/2 the price as the Bill Hirsch paint!
Posted 7/26/2010:
I reused the vac modulator o-ring....both were new..or newer from the rebuild.
I've only temporarily attached the dip stick to the pan, and will remove when I install transmission and will remove pan once under the car, to clean and paint the pan. From glancing at it yesterday that seal looked new too so will probably re-use unless on close inspection when pan is removed it looks like it might need to be replaced. Both seals look pretty standard..and since the THM (turbo 400) is one of the most popular transmissions ever I would try to match up at the local parts store first. I know Kanter and others sell complere rebuild kits...not sure if they sell just these small o-ring seals.
Posted 7/28/2010:
...just to add about the THM O-ring seals, the one on the vac modulator is listed the same 1964 to 1969 in the master parts book and listed as 11/16" ID. There is also an Oring seal behind the speedometer gear and it is listed as the same 64 to 66, and some of the body styles for 67 to 69. The THM oil filler tube seal however is listed as one year only with the 65 and later being different. In terms of O-rings I highly recommend an SAE O-ring set. I've had this one I picked up from summit some time ago and generally never have a problem finding standard O rings: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W5202/?rtype=10
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