oil pump gasket replacement & ps pump replacement

[Kim K Kaiser]

I got my parts in to replace gasket on the 63 cdv oil pump that is leaking.

reading in the manual, it says to remove engine front covers described in 2a.

that is a BUNCH of steps to remove the gasket and the two sets of gears,   or am i over reading that and should i just stick to the disassembly while its on the engine, those 4 cap crews look easy enough access, and proceed to disassemble then reassemble under 5b and 6a  

secondly, i received the PS pump and two new lines.. pump off ok,, pulley off ok,, but those hoses back on the steering column are a real bear,, any suggestion to get those loose, only thing at this point i can see to do is cut the metal piping at at the nut and slide a socket over it,, is there a easier access to pop it loose,,  i have put some nut buster spray in it to sit all night,, see if any easier tomorrow.

Sincerely

Kim

[3n49omug8n28i]

YouTube is your friend Kim. 

[Kim K Kaiser]

On further inspection.  The bolt is hanging down beneath the hole!  Its too long to just pull out, so will cut off., inspect, wait on parts, then go from there

[Kim K Kaiser]

ha,, well,, we will see what happens,

[3n49omug8n28i]

How do you know there is crud in the hole if you can't get the bolt out?

[Kim K Kaiser]

visually, the top 2 or three threads were almost not visible, like a smooth hole from gunk, 

i cleaned engine wth gunk remover earlier today,,  and pulled out my light camera snake,,(looks like a pistol with a cable out he front with a light and camera on the end, and a screen to see,,, i could see down in the hole,, after cleaner, its pretty clean, i can even hand thread the old bolt back up into the hole,, iim guessing pipe cleaner brush may do some cleaning, then hit with more air or cleaner,,, 

[3n49omug8n28i]

Lmao

[2o93f8rdftyzj]

Kim, if the bolt is too long to come out, undo it last. You will find, with the whole manifold detached from the cylinder head, you'll be able to position the manifold to enable the bolt to come out and then repeat the process to re-fit.

Don't cut anything.

[Jason Edge]

Kim, The exhaust bolts at the very front on the right usually will not drop out (or go back in) without slightly raising the engine to get clearance of the coil spring seat towers part of the frame. Raising one side of the engine is easy: Turn wheels hard left, raise right front of car up a bit to get clearance under that area of the car fame. Using good light,  look up inside the triangular open area of the frame where the bottom 3/4" motor mount nut attaches. You need to loosen that nut or back it off. Use a ratchet, long extension, U Joint, and 3/4" socket to access the bottom motor mount bolt and loosen it up a bit. You probably don't have to back it all the way off as you only need about a 1/2 to 3/4" clearance. If you need to remove completely that is OK, it and the washers are easy to put back on. With nut loosened or off, Gently raise the passenger side of engine with a long crowbar making sure you are prying on a solid area of engine (not the oil pan) and car. Use towels to protect paint. It will not take much effort to lift the RH side of engine up enough to drop the bolts out and reinstall.
If you are removing the entire exhaust manifold, it will not matter as all exhaust bolts will need to be removed and can be removed as an assembly with the bolts still in the exhaust manifold mounting holes. 
If removing exhaust manifold and will be reinstalling it, you just have to remember to pre-insert the front bolts in the mounting holes before you put the exhaust manifold up to engine, else you will end up having to slightly raise the RH side of engine as described above. Good Luck.
 

[Kim K Kaiser]

"Raising one side of the engine is easy: "    uh huh!!!

can i use my hydraulic jack to lift the car in the front, or as i have it currently, tires rolled up on a stack of 2x8's so i can get under for my oil changes, or do the tires need to hang freely and off the ground. 

if i can use my 2x8 ramps, could i use the hydraulic jack to lift the engine, as that would hold it up a bit,  or am i completely off base in that process.

[Jason Edge]

...whatever you need to do to get under the car. City slickers use to just drive them up on the curb. A floor jack up under the RH frame side rail just enough to get under the car is fine. But, if using any hydraulic jack be sure to also use jackstands as a safety precaution. Ramps would work fine, but the tire is going to need to be pretty straight... but you can still get to the motor mount nut. Swinging the tire out by turning it far left just makes it easier. This is just one of those things where text on a keyboard is not going to help you out much.
You need to jump under there with a light and use the grey matter to see the nut that needs to be backed off a bit to figure the tools you need to reach and unbolt it.  Since this is a bigger motor bolt I almost always use the larger 1/2" ratchet, extension (about 12" long), U Joint and socket. For almost everything I like 6 point sockets vs 12 point sockets as they grip better.
90% of learning these cars is just doing. I had probably removed and reinstalled my 327 then 350 engine in  my 68 Camaro a half dozen times before I cracked a Chilton's manual open and before I was 18 years old. I'm not sure of your age, but there is a lot to just hands on learning and common sense.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Sounds good, parts get here,  my weekend is planned

[Jason Edge]

I would never, ever, ever, ever lift the engine 3" up from the pan with the motor and trans mounts in place. You can probably safely get away with 1/2" maybe 3/4" .. just enough to get the bolt out in this manner, but these mounts do not have 3" of give!!! Tony, I'm going to have to jump on ya this time! There is a bit of flex in these mounts but 3" will probably bust them out! Kim,Keep in mind that you just need maybe 1/2 to 1" The bolt will angle out a bit so you don't need the full 2 1/4" clearance if this is a stock bolt.