Hello, and thanks for adding to group!
I am restoring 1964 429 engine which I bought as dismantled. It is said to be smoking in driving and has been stored as parts for a year. It is most probably 65500 miles driven. Car was not driven for10 years.
The only damaged part found so far is the top of exhaust valve of cylinder #5. The top has been worn so much that the rocker has been pressing valve locks as well. Respective rocker is worn as well, much more than others. And exhaust rocker #6 is worn as well, and exhaust #8.
Then questions:
1. What damage could this cause? I can think that valve lift gets a bit smaller than it should, but so what?
2. Is that common for Cadillac 429 exhaust valves to worn from the top, especially cylinders #5 and #6? Maybe there is less oil.
This is my first V8 engine project. I have Shop manual. I plan to replace piston rings, all gaskets, nylon timing gear, some worn exhaust valves and rockers, and valve stem o-rings. Bearings, pistons and shafts are in good condition.
Big thanks in advance!
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Slowly 429 and TH400 are getting close the big moment when they will be married together with adapter ring before moving to their final home in the Engine Bay. From pile of bolts which came with the car I found some potential candidates for connection. There are 6 similar bolts + another set of 6 a bit longer bolts.
Question: should I use the longer bolts between TH400 and the ring, or between the ring and the engine?
To me it seems that both lenghts will work in both places, but of course I would like to use correct length.
Any idea anyone?
The THM to Adaptor ring are the longer bolts. Here are the specs:
- THM Trans to Adaptor Ring: 7/16"-14 1 1/2" Long Grade 5
- Adaptor Ring to Engine: 7/16"-14 1 1/4" Long Grade 5
Of course I have them cad plated but yours like in fine condition.
Thanks Jason!
I have been busy with 66 coupe and new acquisition 67 convertible but now I decided to focus in getting rebuilt engine and th400 finally into 64 Engine Bay.
Should I get good compression results in cylinders when rotating engine manually slowly from crank bolt? Reason for asking is that I get very low numbers in meter. Engine is still in engine stand.
i could install adapter ring and rotate with starter to get proper results.
I plan to use Edelbrock 1406 from my 66 for 64 engine break in. It works fine now in 66 so it should work fine in 64 as well from the beginning.
I removed radiator and AC condenser, and then it was possible to push from front and wiggle the transmission cooling pipes to their places.
Next: are all 3 wires to starter supposed to go via the bracket in exhaust manifold, or the big wire only? I try to make it as original as possible.
Getting closer to break-in step by step. Small setback was to notice the radiator is leaking a bit. I decided to take it to radiator shop to get it re-cored and maintain the original outlook.
I tested that starter works fine.
it is quite tight place to tighten the nuts of front engine mounts! Is there a trick for it? With swivel socket?
I am fighting in two frontiers because lifter replacement for 67 takes some time as well!
Original radiator has now a new core and water stays well inside.
When priming the engine with drill the pressure goes quickly to 1,4 bar but starts to go down even when I continue rotating the oil pump. Some oil comes to heads and especially to the rocker in the middle. Others stay dry. Probably I should use the drill longer?. I guess no need to open the oil pump because clearly it works. It has new gears and a new spring in valve.
When priming the oil comes fast to oil pressure sensor hole, but when I connect the meter it shows max 1,5 or zero. I need to try with new meter. Only some of the rockers get oil, and same result if I rotate the engine by hand. But it is clear that oil comes to pressure sensor and to rockers, so I think priming is ok.
I took a bit closer look to rockers and found out that the three new rockers which I have are equipped with an oil groove inside. With this groove oil is much easier to pushrod end of the rocker. The hole in original rocker never meets the hole in the rocker shaft, and oil is getting very slowly to ends of the rocker. Oil stays between the rocker andnthe shaft. That could be the reason for 429 lubrication problems. Probably I will update all rockers with improved design. You see the difference in photo below. Close to camera is new rocker with oil groove inside.
Started by Robert Alan Shannon in General Discussion. Last reply by Robert Alan Shannon 8 hours ago. 2 Replies 0 Likes
Could anyone give me the Gates or Dayco number for the alternator V belt, just can't remember it and trying to get her back on the road after many years. 63 wA/CContinue
Tags: belt, V, alternartor
Started by Michael Monson in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion 18 hours ago. 0 Replies 0 Likes
I'm currently rounding up parts for a heater core replacement in my 1964 Deville. I'm looking for replacement hoses that connect to the heater core itself. It's a factory a/c car and has the metal…Continue
Started by Jason Edge in Trivia yesterday. 0 Replies 0 Likes
Keeping the trivia "glass related":- How Many Different Windshields Were Used On All 1963 & 1964 Cadillac Body Styles? - What were the two main differences or subgroups of windshields? Hint, one…Continue
Started by Jason Edge in Trivia. Last reply by Jason Edge yesterday. 6 Replies 0 Likes
What % of 1963 and 1964 Cadillacs came with the optional "soft ray" tented glass? 1963 & 1964 were very close, so if you get one you will get the other. Need to get it within 3%. So, who will…Continue
Posted by SK on June 2, 2025 at 2:20pm 2 Comments 0 Likes
Could someone post front and back photos of the 1963 right-hand kick panel with A/C?
My car didn’t come with the original kick panels, so it's a bit of a mystery to me how I should cut the backing board and carpet to fit around the A/C.
Many thanks,
-Samu
Posted by Chase on March 12, 2025 at 2:05pm 14 Comments 1 Like
Hey guys,
I have installed the same Edelbrock carb and have done everything the same as Jason’s carb and intake project. In the spring and summer months the car starts, runs and idles great! In the fall and winter months on a cold start, the car starts awful and wants to die until it warms up. I have to keep my foot on the throttle until it warms up or it will idle just terrible and try to die. Once it’s warm, it runs fantastic! Whats going on here? I was thinking of removing the…
ContinuePosted by Ray Schick on August 22, 2024 at 6:25pm 2 Comments 0 Likes
I bought this seat material thinking that it’s…
December 14, 2025 from 7pm to 8:30pm – Zoom
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