Hello, and thanks for adding to group!

I am restoring 1964 429 engine which I bought as dismantled. It is said to be smoking in driving and has been stored as parts for a year. It is most probably 65500 miles driven. Car was not driven for10 years.


The only damaged part found so far is the top of exhaust valve of cylinder #5. The top has been worn so much that the rocker has been pressing valve locks as well. Respective rocker is worn as well, much more than others. And exhaust rocker #6 is worn as well, and exhaust #8.
Then questions:
1. What damage could this cause? I can think that valve lift gets a bit smaller than it should, but so what?
2. Is that common for Cadillac 429 exhaust valves to worn from the top, especially cylinders #5 and #6? Maybe there is less oil.

This is my first V8 engine project. I have Shop manual. I plan to replace piston rings, all gaskets, nylon timing gear, some worn exhaust valves and rockers, and valve stem o-rings. Bearings, pistons and shafts are in good condition. 

Big thanks in advance!

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Slowly 429 and TH400 are getting close the big moment when they will be married together with adapter ring before moving to their final home in the Engine Bay. From pile of bolts which came with the car I found some potential candidates for connection. There are 6 similar bolts + another set of 6 a bit longer bolts.
Question: should I use the longer bolts between TH400 and the ring, or between the ring and the engine? 
To me it seems that both lenghts will work in both places, but of course I would like to use correct length.

Any idea anyone?

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The THM to Adaptor ring are the longer bolts. Here are the specs:
- THM Trans to Adaptor Ring: 7/16"-14 1 1/2" Long Grade 5
- Adaptor Ring to Engine: 7/16"-14 1 1/4" Long Grade 5

Of course I have them cad plated but yours like in fine condition.

Thanks Jason!

I have been busy with 66 coupe and new acquisition 67 convertible but now I decided to focus in getting rebuilt engine and th400 finally into 64 Engine Bay.

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Should I get good compression results in cylinders when rotating engine manually slowly from crank bolt? Reason for asking is that I get very low numbers in meter. Engine is still in engine stand.

i could install adapter ring and rotate with starter to get proper results.

I plan to use Edelbrock 1406 from my 66 for 64 engine break in. It works fine now in 66 so it should work fine in 64 as well from the beginning.

Getting there step by step. 429 travelled 30 miles to see the car and was coupled to TH400 who was already waiting there. Plan to get them in tomorrow.

I got engine and transmission in, and now lots of wires and hoses to connect. 
Now I need to install oil cooler pipes, but it seems to be quite a challenge. I wonder if I should remove something in order to get pipes there. Any ideas are welcome!

I removed radiator and AC condenser, and then it was possible to push from front and wiggle the transmission cooling pipes to their places.

Next: are all 3 wires to starter supposed to go via the bracket in exhaust manifold, or the big wire only? I try to make it as original as possible.

Getting closer to break-in step by step. Small setback was to notice the radiator is leaking a bit. I decided to take it to radiator shop to get it re-cored and maintain the original outlook.

I tested that starter works fine. 

it is quite tight place to tighten the nuts of front engine mounts! Is there a trick for it? With  swivel socket? 

I am fighting in two frontiers because lifter replacement for 67 takes some time as well!

Original radiator has now a new core and water stays well inside.

When priming the engine with drill the pressure goes quickly to 1,4 bar but starts to go down even when I continue rotating the oil pump. Some oil comes to heads and especially to the rocker in the middle. Others stay dry. Probably I should use the drill longer?. I guess no need to open the oil pump because clearly it works. It has new gears and a new spring in valve.

When priming the oil comes fast to oil pressure sensor hole, but when I connect the meter it shows max 1,5 or zero. I need to try with new meter. Only some of the rockers get oil, and same result if I rotate the engine by hand. But it is clear that oil comes to pressure sensor and to rockers, so I think priming is ok.

I took a bit closer look to rockers and found out that the three new rockers which I have are equipped with an oil groove inside. With this groove oil is much easier to pushrod end of the rocker. The hole in original rocker never meets the hole in the rocker shaft, and oil is getting very slowly to ends of the rocker. Oil stays between the rocker andnthe shaft. That could be the reason for 429 lubrication problems. Probably I will update all rockers with improved design. You see the difference in photo below. Close to camera is new rocker with oil groove inside.

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