63 cdv    have a nuisance leak that needs to be dealt with,  now i think its coming from around the oil pan, or from front engine cover  that little long black nipple always has a drip or right up near the front of the engine. there seems to be smear of oil on the pan and usually a drip off of the oil pan drain plug.

it extends back the next structure,, the semi circular plate right behind the oil pan,  (what is that btw?)  there seems to always be a little drip or two, hanging from that edge.    

 can oil pan be taken off with out removing engine, and gasket replaced,?  if not, i will have to take in,  i dont really have the support tools to get under and feel safe to take of the pan,, nor do i have access to a lift..so thatt would be reason to take in...

same for front engine cover.  if that is leaking, and the oil i see is wind blown drift down the side of the pan, which, as i said earlier, i have seen oil on the bottom of that,  it may be the culprit,, i tried the permatex gasket spread around the bottom like i did on my 73, (73 has held well) and it has worked for a while, but i think its found a new way out and I'm tired of looking at it.. 

so any suggestion would be appreciated as this is something i have never done, so i dont want to get sideways on it and have to tow it in if I ef it up.


Views: 256

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Does transmission need to be sepated from engine on thiscas weell?

To clean the oil fill cap screen, I use brake parts cleaner in a spray can.   The harmonic balancer is removed with a special puller, and the repair sleeve slips onto it. I use a thread sealer to seal and lock it in place.   It takes the same special tool to install the harmonic balancer. Don't be the fool who hammers it hack on. You will ruin the part.

The 63 has a Hydro matic with a torus converter. The torus converter has a front plate with a large special O ring. That usually leaks first.  Remove the inspection cover and look to see if trans fluid is on the teeth for the starter, or at the back wall of the trans. On the teeth is a leaking tarus converter.  back wall is the front trans seal.   Either seal requires the trans to be pulled.

Real good question about doing the sleeve with the front engine cover on the car 

You might need to be replacing the seal at that time as well so all is fresh 

Sure Russ has the  good tips 


A basic but —do watch the dip stick more if oil leaks are an issue 


yes,  i ck that often anyway


i know you remove the harmonic balancer with a puller —but what tool WB used to replace the balancer back into position without damaging it ( no BFH ) 

Would it be with a center bolt with washers and an air power tool ?

Does  the HB have a key way to install it in the exact place it came off the  crank  (for crank balance reasons )  

I do know you have to be careful not to damage it when going back on 

Do you use the old seal —as the sleeve will be making the front of the crank thicker and tightening up the seal space there

Thanks in advance for the info my friend 


The same seal is used on the front engine cover for the harmonic balancer. You can get harmonic balancer installers.  I have a kit that is dual purpose.

i did the foot powder test,, little dibble around the fuel pump, so i pulled the rear bolt, and when i loosened it, it took little more than what it takes to loosen the valve cover bolts,,   really not anywhere near 15lbs i wouldnt guess ,, anyway,,  i got it out, per Russ instructions, and put the rtv black on the threads and to the back of the bolt and put it back in,, not a bad process,, that bolt is a little hidden, but other than that, not too bad,, so will see how that holds up.

i did find the leak that is leaving the spots, it turns out to be the transmission pan,  guessing the gasket is worn out on the back passenger side, thats where the drip was,, running hand over the edge, didnt find any red fluid on the other edges or anything fresh above the connection line..  so, will get a gasket and work on that,,   ]

i do know the valve covers are leaking so i will go head and do that as well,,,,,,its minor, but i dont like the look when i see it on the engine..

cleaned out the oil filter cap as well..

anyway, working through it all



  • Add Photos
  • View All


Roof trim

Started by Krystin Barany in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Krystin Barany 17 hours ago. 2 Replies

I’m going to be starting to tear down my 64’ DeVille before too long but one thing I never figured out was how the roof trim comes off. I understand the drip rails and how to take those off without…Continue

Factory AC clutch fan needed

Started by Chris Gill in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion 20 hours ago. 0 Replies

Hi folks,My clutch fan died so I desperately need a new one. Unfortunately it will take a week or more to order from the usual suppliers so I am hoping someone on here has a manufacturer name and…Continue

Replacement Rear Trailing Arms

Started by Dan McNarry in Restoration Discussion. Last reply by Kim K Kaiser yesterday. 5 Replies

Hello all,I haven't been on the forum for quite a while and do wish you all well. I would like to thank all of you who have purchased replacement rear trailing arms from me in the past. I realize…Continue

Over heating

Started by Kim K Kaiser in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Tony and Ginny 429 yesterday. 4 Replies

Hi, been doing the break in still. At about 450 miles.I hve noticed that when i go out, temp gets to between 1/4 and 1/2 on the gauge.  If i sit any period of time or dnt keep moving, it creeps…Continue

Blog Posts

1963 series 62 convertible transmission issue

Posted by Matthew VanDeWater on June 22, 2021 at 3:03pm 1 Comment

Hello I've been restoring a 63 for way to many years. Down to almost done, but have issue with trans linkage, when column in park shift rod 2 inches short. everything original. been trying to find picture of manual rod hooked up from under car to see position of linkage. was wondering if anybody has access for pictures. I wanted to see if my manual linkage is bent  wrong out of the trans if somebody dropped the trans or something. Doesn't make sense why it doesn't work. Thanks for any input…


New vehicle in the club

Posted by Patrick Westphal on June 17, 2021 at 4:00pm 1 Comment

I was successful in getting a vehicle from the New York contact I talked about at the last club meeting. I am still trying to figure out how to post a picture of the vehicle that is tied with this comment so if you see a random picture of a black convertible in a yard, that's me haha.  …


Torque converter grab when idling in Drive

Posted by Cliff Johnston on June 14, 2021 at 8:47pm 2 Comments

Hi Everyone, been quite a while since i have been on here.

I have had an issue with the idle on my 64 Coupe Deville ever since i have had it.

With the Idle set high enough that it is smooth, but still a nice idle, the RPM seems only slightly too high for the stall of the Torque Converter. And therefore it tends to sit there and grab and lunge a bit. So until now, i have been putting the car in Neutral at the lights to stop this happening.

I've had the car dyno tuned and…


Can you help? Driveshaft Question....

Posted by Chris on May 30, 2021 at 8:55am 1 Comment


Newbie to the group here - we have already found tons of invaluable information on the board, so thanks! We are restoring a 1963 Series 62 Convertible. We are wondering if anyone knows of a source to buy the propellor yoke flange (that bolts to the pinion flange) for the driveshaft? One of our ears partially broke off. Not sure if we can buy just the yoke flange as an aftermarket part, or if it has to be rebuilt by a welder/fab guy? Maybe a salvage yard for a source? Again, any…




  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2021   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service