In this video from "Jason's Garage", I show how to check condition of a driveshaft. Particular attention is given to the rear section CV joints, which often ...
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Jason has some good advice here. I'm thinking your mechanic wants to do this the "most" right way. If you still have a slight variation and you didn't balance everything then you have to start over. If there is a slight vibration and its balanced then you know to start looking elsewhere. I would check the bushing in the transmission tail stock. Mine was worn and replacement helped with the vibration. I still have a slight vibration and it's on my bucket list to restore.
Thanks, Jason. I'm tempted but it will now have to wait till my mechanic has another slow day. These guys are Bulgarians (which means they did not grow up with these cars) that I use to service my MBZ Diesel (which they DID grow up with). My other car is a 66 Imperial which has a very similar set-up and is EXQUISITELY sensitive to vibration caused by balance-even though it is constructed and attaches in almost exactly the same way. My issue is very slight (I am EXTREMELY PARTICULAR) so I fear that if I do the swap and my mechanic is correct, I may make things worse. I DO have the matching front half that goes with the good rear, but I am missing some small parts to connect them. Someone removed the carrier and did not hold on to the slinger and other parts. I also have a brand new carrier and bearing. If I find the small parts that would enable me to re-assemble the two halves correctly (they are marked) I may just put the whole thing together and swap it out entirely. We'll see......
Norm, I've never had or heard of a good rear throwing the driveline out of balance. That does not mean there is no merit in having the entire front, center member bearing and bracket, and rear section balances as an assembly, however, my thinking is since the center member bearing and bracket is bolted to the frame this creates a stationary point where further vibration should not be propagated. In that thinking I believe it would be more advantageous to balance the front section and rear section separately. I have never done any deep dive study into this but have also never had much of any negative feedback from customers that swapped in a rear section. The bottom line is there are just 4 5/8" bolts at rear and one large retaining nut holding it together and you are looking at 30 minutes to 1 hr install time at best. I would pop it in and give it a spin. This is one subject I have to keep an open mind. Be sure to tell us how it goes and if there was any balancing done. I would be very curious how the entire assembly would be balances as a unit. I would assume the center member bearing is fixed in some vice like contraption, since it is the one non-flexing and stationary component of the drivetrain. Almost everything else has some back and forth and up and down flexing.
I managed to secure a rear half of a drive shaft that passes the "Jason Test"; it puts up rigid resistance to being moved. When I went to my mechanic today to swap out the sections he said he'd be glad to do it, but that doing so would through the drive shaft out of balance, unless after we re-assembled the two halves i took the driveshaft to a driveline place and had them balanced as a unit. I don't remember seeing anyone refer to this process (balancing after assembly) so is it advisable/necessary? Thanks.
Vibration on my 64 is felt more strongly when I actually accelerate than when I am just running along (although it is present then, too). If I shift in to neutral, it pretty much goes away. Does this sound more like CENTER BEARING/CARRIER or weak CV joints. I'd like to be prepared before I take things apart because I will be using a lift provided for 4 hours on a Saturday morning by my regular (diesel) mechanic. All opinions welcome-especially good ones.
Fantastic and highly informative!!!!
How many grease zerks are there from the front - to the rear —of the driveshaft
Kim indicated that he greased the rear CV joint so we have one in that location
I have a shop do my body grease with the grease powered into the zerks that will push old dirty grease out of some locations ( ball joints )
think this method is superior to a hand grease gun as it flush out old grease a bit more
That is why I have no idea how many zerks are on the driveshaft
Main thing is to have the driveshaft locked down in a vice, and angle it so you get max wrench jaw on the square of the nut.
Thanks Jason. I was trying a large adjustable wrench, but felt it might damage the nut.
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