It appears the only way to replace the Cornering Lights bulbs is to remove the entire bulb housing (in front of the front wheel wells).  Is this correct?  Or is there a better way?

Mike Vogler

Views: 1055

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

This is great info.  I think I have a "spanner" that will fit (or maybe even a socket that will ft over the end of the screwdriver)!   LOL.  

Yep, a socket would work fine.

Old mechanics trick. 

I would be careful with those manual impact driver sets. They are designed to put a lot of force to the tip of the bit.  While I have a nice set I have never tried to or had to use them on any cornering light. Those cornering light lens are old and brittle and will crack if they receive any undue stress or flexing.  The metal light fixture itself is brittle pot metal and can also crack.  I prefer to soak overnight with something like PB Blaster, use a new or like new Phillips bit that will really grip the bolt head, and use any of the different methods mentioned to apply turning torque. I try to concentrate 99% of my effort to pushing in on the Screwdriver so it will not slip. I like the square shank screwdrivers as it is easy to set the large adjustable wrench on them. I have a couple of sets that included all the way up to the really big #3 and #4 Phillips heads needed for removing the door lock striker plates and door hinges.  I guess it is what ever works.

I've removed 110 and counting cornering lights from parts cars and have had some with screws pretty well frozen up with my technique.  Back in the early days I would try and get the box end wrench on the Phillips screwdriver grip handle, but after a few goes the metal shaft/shank would often strip out of the glued on or pressed on plastic handle. I would then try 1 to 3 Vice Grips (1 on handle and 1 or 2 on metal shank) and that worked OK but things got chewed up. I finally started using square shank Phillips (and regular) Screwdrivers.   When it comes down to it, you use any and all tools you have on hand.  Over the years you learn what works. I remember really struggling with those flat bevel door hinge screws and door lock striker plate screws early on, but at this point with the big square shank #3 and #4 Phillips Screwdrivers and an adjustable wrench, and a light tap with the hammer they almost always come right out and is one of the easier things I do when dismantling the cars.
 

In case it helps, you can see some photos of when I replaced my cornering light bulbs with LEDs here: 
https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=8381066%40N05&sort=date-...

Karl,  Where did you get those LED bulbs for the corning lamps and how much?  I need to replace both of mine.  

I got them on Amazon.I've replaced a bunch of bulbs with LEDs in the past few years, but I think these are the ones I used here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M6M7MMT/

I used these same bulbs in a few places on the car. Including for the backup lights.

Also $10 for 2 bulbs, $22 for 10 bulbs.

I used them for my white backup lights too. Here is how they look:

Jason,

I share your concerns. I have a DeWalt impact driver (battery powered) which I considered, but decided against because of the risk of cracking the lens, trim, or housing.  My plan is to spray the screws and around the housing there the crews insert with BP Blaster Friday night, and attempt to hand remove them using a spanner :D on my screwdriver on Saturday.  Wish me luck!

Mike

Eat your Wheaties that morning and really push into those screws! :-) 

Hey Karl,

Do you know if there are LEDs replacement for instrument cluster bulbs. Even with new replacement bulbs, with my aging eyes, some areas can be rather dim, particularly the clock (and I've replaced all the bulbs with new bulbs in the past 6 months.) 

Just to add my two cents worth, I bought a set of Craftsman diamond tipped screwdrivers a while back. The tips are rough to grab rather than slip and they work great. They get a bite unlike any other screwdrivers I have and have become my go to every time. Hers a link for a single Phillips #2 but you can get a whole set for a reasonable price.

One more tip is to use a screwdriver with as long of a shaft as possible. The torque seems to build up better as you are twisting.

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Extreme-Grip-Screwdriver-PH2/dp/B0...

Also, note to Kevin: These are American cars and are worked on with wrenches, not spanners ; )

Technically, it's 14 screws.  ;-)

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

Modern radio antenna …

Started by Mack in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion yesterday. 0 Replies

Just replaced radios for the modern radios with Bluetooth and all the dance things and wanted to share how I went around the antenna knob… I’ve installed a regular two way GM window switch in the…Continue

BOOT

Started by John Inglesby in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Marty Smith yesterday. 1 Reply

I recently purchased a new boot for my 64 convertible and was wondering how difficult it s to install. I'm not very mechanical. It looks like the chrome piece behind and at top of seats needs to be…Continue

63 Exhaust Hanger Mystery

Started by Mike Travers in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Cees de Bunje on Monday. 8 Replies

I'm in the process of installing a stainless steel single exhaust from Classic Exhaust on my '63 Coupe de Ville. I'm running into a mystery regarding my middle exhaust bracket. I have the bracket…Continue

TH400 Dipstick Tube Seal

Started by Logan Robb in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Logan Robb on Monday. 9 Replies

In my “rebuild” of the transmission, I ordered a dipstick tube seal. However, I’m not sure if the right one came or how to best install the seal. I am wondering if anyone has replaced this seal OR…Continue

Blog Posts

Loud air moving sound within carb with cleaner removed

Posted by Dave Fehrle on March 23, 2024 at 3:23pm 8 Comments

While checking my Carter carb with engine running, I took the air cleaner off and there was a very loud hissing sound of air. I placed a piece of paper over the carb and it didn’t move up or down, is this normal?

Vintage Air AC

Posted by Chase on March 21, 2024 at 5:55am 0 Comments

Hey everyone, has anybody done a Vintage Air AC/Heat setup in their car? I want to bypass the old vacuum setup and go with a Vintage Air Gen 2 model. Before I get started, does anyone have any experience with this? (Which model to go with, do’s and dont’s, etc.) It looks pretty involved. Any and all info/pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

accumulator dryer

Posted by CHRIS CARLSON on December 6, 2023 at 10:54am 0 Comments

Who rebuilds original AC  accumulator dryers for 1964 Cadillac? I have been on Classic auto air in Tampa FL wait list for over a year ,  There is one on Old air products web site that looks very similar to the original # 21-4214A but states it fits 1962 Gm cars, The one recommended for a 1964 Cadillac is half the length 21-4215A    What  is everyone using ? I would prefer to be as original as possible. Thanks

'63 Eldorado trumpet horn + 2 standard horns restoration

Posted by Les Eastling on November 15, 2023 at 10:34am 1 Comment

My son, unbeknownst to me, had all three of the horns on our 1963 Eldorado completely restored. We had recently added the Eldorado trumpet horn to the two standard horns and the sound was not very good... we had heard good ones so we knew something was not right... but there was not much we could do to get better sound from the 3 horns. 

There is a restoration service called The Horn Works who my son…

Continue

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2024   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service