Hello, and thanks for adding to group!

I am restoring 1964 429 engine which I bought as dismantled. It is said to be smoking in driving and has been stored as parts for a year. It is most probably 65500 miles driven. Car was not driven for10 years.


The only damaged part found so far is the top of exhaust valve of cylinder #5. The top has been worn so much that the rocker has been pressing valve locks as well. Respective rocker is worn as well, much more than others. And exhaust rocker #6 is worn as well, and exhaust #8.
Then questions:
1. What damage could this cause? I can think that valve lift gets a bit smaller than it should, but so what?
2. Is that common for Cadillac 429 exhaust valves to worn from the top, especially cylinders #5 and #6? Maybe there is less oil.

This is my first V8 engine project. I have Shop manual. I plan to replace piston rings, all gaskets, nylon timing gear, some worn exhaust valves and rockers, and valve stem o-rings. Bearings, pistons and shafts are in good condition. 

Big thanks in advance!

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Bits and pieces are finding their places slowly. Big thanks to Jason for support. 
i am getting concerned if my 1000 lbs engine stand will survive the build up. Compressor and water pump installed it is getting a bit wobbly. Still balancer, fuel pump, exhaust manifold, oil etc to add.

 

Looks great Matti. I know what you mean about the wobbly engine stand. You can put a 2X4 or 4X4 between the engine and the stand for more support. It will keep the stand from flexing every time it is moved.

It is my first time installing engine to car and I plan as follows:

- transmission and engine installed together

- front of the car raised with stands 6-8 inches on garage floor

- engine without compressor, fan, intake manifold

- strong engine hoist with leveller to enable tilting of the package

- hoist chain fixed to intake manifold bolts, 2 front, 2 rear
- radiator removed, protection for stuff under the hood, hood removed

- new motor mounts front and rear

Any other points to take into account?

probably goes without saying, but as I am the king of F U;s.  make sure when you move he engine while on the hoist you dont push too hard on the top end or push from bottom to fast...in my endeavor last year, when pulling he old one out, wo trans, the bottom of the lift slipped out from under the engine while it was hanging and the whole dame thing fell over, dropping engine into the bay.  had to get a tractor to come pull the dame thing out,  didnt damage anything in the bay, but did scrap a fender,,,

Thanks Ken

I am expecting something similar during my project.

I refurbished the original carburator with Hygrade rebulld kit. Parts were in good condition, not much wear.

I want to keep original choke so I do not block exhaust gas channel in intake manifold. But I would like to block the openings in insulator plate. There is gas channel already in manifold so there should not be any need to let gases to get close to carb itself and to make it too hot. Any ideas how to block those gas channels in insulation plate? JBWeld? Or is it bad idea?

I agree if you want to block exhaust passage completely. But I would like to maintain original choke and exhaust heat is needed for that, I assume. 
I would block those green marked openings. I think they are only for heating the carburator which I do not need.

I have seen where others have threaded these holes, put a bolt in them and ground off the bolt heads. Maybe a little exhaust sealant on the threads for good measure.

I taped thread and screwed Grade 8 bolts in those holes and cut out with my initial Carb & Intake project. Click this link and scroll down and you will see the picture below inserted below link: https://6364cadillac.ning.com/forum/topics/edelbrock-1406-1411-inst...

Just to note this intake also had the front primaries ported (enlarged) to match the butterfles on the Edelbrock 1411.. so it might look a bit odd compared to a stock intake.

Finally I noticed that original choke will work even if I block the exhaust passage. I made threads to intake manifold and put bolts there. 

Got Rochester rebuilt so next task to check TH400 condition. Two bolts from extension housing were so corroded that they broke when opening, otherwise no damages yet. O-ring in filter was not properly in place, and was cut actually. Modulator is not holding vacuum so need to be replaced. Governor valve is stuck, I hope cleaning will solve that.

I will clean all parts and replace gaskets, and other parts if necessary. Oil was very clean and red inside but I think oil has been changed or added not long time ago. 
 I can see that 64 is slightly different from 79 which I repaired year ago.

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