429 restoration

[Matti Roth]

Hello, and thanks for adding to group!

I am restoring 1964 429 engine which I bought as dismantled. It is said to be smoking in driving and has been stored as parts for a year. It is most probably 65500 miles driven. Car was not driven for10 years.

The only damaged part found so far is the top of exhaust valve of cylinder #5. The top has been worn so much that the rocker has been pressing valve locks as well. Respective rocker is worn as well, much more than others. And exhaust rocker #6 is worn as well, and exhaust #8.
Then questions:
1. What damage could this cause? I can think that valve lift gets a bit smaller than it should, but so what?
2. Is that common for Cadillac 429 exhaust valves to worn from the top, especially cylinders #5 and #6? Maybe there is less oil.

This is my first V8 engine project. I have Shop manual. I plan to replace piston rings, all gaskets, nylon timing gear, some worn exhaust valves and rockers, and valve stem o-rings. Bearings, pistons and shafts are in good condition. 

Big thanks in advance!

[Matti Roth]

I replaced rest of the rockers to the version with oil groove inside. Now oil comes smoothly to top of each rocker.

[872f032648fb4a22a8e3368b29b70456]

Also did you replace all original pushrod?

[Matti Roth]

I replaced only some of them. Those were corroded.

[872f032648fb4a22a8e3368b29b70456]

Where did you purchase the newer style rockers, with oil grooves?

[Matti Roth]

Yes I installed the meter there.

[Matti Roth]

Getting ready for engine break-in and filled radiator with coolant. To my surprise, water started dripping from crossover pipe top bolt on driver side. Bolts are tight, new gaskets. I think there should not be water at all behind that bolt. I tried with different washer combinations but no help.
Looks like I need to remove the crossover pipe and look for cracks or something else wrong there.

https://youtu.be/Pcik97SweR0

[Jason Edge]

If it is leaking from behind the cross-over pipe it might be it has simply not been tightened up against the block tight enough.

If someone had drilled through the bottom back end of the thread cavity you are going to just have to cake a lot of sealant around that back.

So, for the 1st issue, did you clean the bolt threads out well before installing the bolts. I always chase those threads with a tap then blow out with air then thread a bolt in and out to make sure it will go in as it should.  If not, the bolt may be stopping before pulling the pipe up against the block as it should.

I have also seen the back end of the bolt hole cavity drilled out or a bolt too long installed leading to the water jacket. If you look at the picture below from above left looking down you can see that cavity that should keep the bolt out of the water jacket end.  If yours is busted out you want to thread heavy sealant on that bolt. 

You will also note this block was compromised at the upper thread hold where it was apparently drilled off center at some point causing a hairline crack. 

 

[Matti Roth]

Reason for the leak was easy to see after removing the crossover pipe: the gasket was not properly in its place and let water flow from water channel to bolt channel. Bolts were tight so there was no leak from outer edge of the gasket. Maybe I should use a bit of sealant or something to keep the gasket in place during assembly. Luckily I have new gaskets in shelf so I can fix it tomorrow.

Gasket got damaged during disassembly but the fault is visible there.

[Matti Roth]

Thanks for good advice!

It is leaking behind the bolt head, not between the pipe and the head. You can see it in attached video. There could a crack between the water channel and the bolt channel. I will check this after I have removed the pipe.

https://youtu.be/Pcik97SweR0

[Matti Roth]

Finally I got everything ready for the first start and 30 min break-in went well. Battery was showing 12,8v but I needed extra power from another vehicle. Only problem was that generator was charging with 15,7v which is way too much. Probably that overvoltage caused damage to condenser in distributor, which had to be replaced twice. Actually we had to stop because we ran out of condensers, and no more old Cadillacs nearby where a condenser could be taken from.

I am very happy with this result and big thanks for all great advice here!

https://youtu.be/vyuqUGuVSCs

[Matti Roth]

Thanks Tony

There is still work to do in fixing rust spot, getting Confort control to work, fixing brakes, assembling the bumper and grille, fixing leak in steering gear etc. I believe these tasks will take at least 2 years as I have several other classic cars to fix. So lots of fun ahead!