Hello, and thanks for adding to group!

I am restoring 1964 429 engine which I bought as dismantled. It is said to be smoking in driving and has been stored as parts for a year. It is most probably 65500 miles driven. Car was not driven for10 years.

The only damaged part found so far is the top of exhaust valve of cylinder #5. The top has been worn so much that the rocker has been pressing valve locks as well. Respective rocker is worn as well, much more than others. And exhaust rocker #6 is worn as well, and exhaust #8.
Then questions:
1. What damage could this cause? I can think that valve lift gets a bit smaller than it should, but so what?
2. Is that common for Cadillac 429 exhaust valves to worn from the top, especially cylinders #5 and #6? Maybe there is less oil.

This is my first V8 engine project. I have Shop manual. I plan to replace piston rings, all gaskets, nylon timing gear, some worn exhaust valves and rockers, and valve stem o-rings. Bearings, pistons and shafts are in good condition. 

Big thanks in advance!

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Where did you purchase the newer style rockers, with oil grooves?

The one top valve stem wear is not something I have seen posted  here over the years 

Has to be an issue with just the top of that valve not getting the oil flow as it should 

Might be an issue with oil change intervals in the past but no problem as you are rebuilding the entire engine 


Having a new engine is a wonderful thing to be enjoying your Cadillac for the long haul


A lot of wear for 65500 miles and smoking has to mean that the oil was not changed as often as it should have been 

With correct maintenance and a few replacement parts ( water pump—alternator - carb )  these engines SB good for 100,000 to 130,000miles 

Had to be a lot of valve train noise with that kind of wear showing 

Do the upgrade to the heads for ethanol fuel if not done already 

Exciting to be preparing a new rebuilt engine for your Classic Cadillac to be enjoying for the long haul into the future - motoring peace of mind increasing the cars reliability and enjoyment 




I am pretty  sure there is not much you can do to be getting a reasonably good oil pressure reading on your gauge until the engine gets fired up and running 

One person on the site said it took 10 minutes of priming for the oil to show on the rockers  

Have you been priming as long as that ? 



Do you have your oil sending unit out and open or is that where you installed the oil pressure meter you are reading ?


Yes I installed the meter there.

Getting ready for engine break-in and filled radiator with coolant. To my surprise, water started dripping from crossover pipe top bolt on driver side. Bolts are tight, new gaskets. I think there should not be water at all behind that bolt. I tried with different washer combinations but no help.
Looks like I need to remove the crossover pipe and look for cracks or something else wrong there.


If it is leaking from behind the cross-over pipe it might be it has simply not been tightened up against the block tight enough.

If someone had drilled through the bottom back end of the thread cavity you are going to just have to cake a lot of sealant around that back.

So, for the 1st issue, did you clean the bolt threads out well before installing the bolts. I always chase those threads with a tap then blow out with air then thread a bolt in and out to make sure it will go in as it should.  If not, the bolt may be stopping before pulling the pipe up against the block as it should.

I have also seen the back end of the bolt hole cavity drilled out or a bolt too long installed leading to the water jacket. If you look at the picture below from above left looking down you can see that cavity that should keep the bolt out of the water jacket end.  If yours is busted out you want to thread heavy sealant on that bolt. 

You will also note this block was compromised at the upper thread hold where it was apparently drilled off center at some point causing a hairline crack. 


That picture is worth —-a thousand words —Jason 

That cross over pipe  bolt channel is very unique in that  head 


Do you think using a sealant on the bolt threads would be of any help ?

There is coolant In the cross over pipe very  close to the leaking bolt location 

Are those replacement bolts or the originals ?

Could be a gasket issue 

Fortunately it is at the top of the engine so most of the coolant will still be in the engine if you must remove the cross over pipe for inspection  

A very very exciting time when ever  firing up  a new engine happens 

Enjoy—- the labors of your love and hobby 

If you do remove the cross over pipe be careful of the water pump to cross over seal as that is a trouble spot for many when filling the engine with coolant for the first time before a start up 


Reason for the leak was easy to see after removing the crossover pipe: the gasket was not properly in its place and let water flow from water channel to bolt channel. Bolts were tight so there was no leak from outer edge of the gasket. Maybe I should use a bit of sealant or something to keep the gasket in place during assembly. Luckily I have new gaskets in shelf so I can fix it tomorrow.

Gasket got damaged during disassembly but the fault is visible there.



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