Hesitation on starting after driving

[Dave Fehrle]

I have noticed that after I drive for 5-10 miles or more and then shut off the car, it hesitates when I go to start? Anyone experience this before and if so, what was the fix?

[Dave Fehrle]

Have a new regulator, but what is the item in the red circle? GEN light stays on with and without the circled item installed! Now what is causing gen light to stay on?

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Hi Dave,

      That is the regulator radio capacitor.  They are used to prevent points from burning and to reduce radio static for the AM radio.  This may have an effect.  I would replace it and try the new harness from regulator to the alternator.  I double grounded the regulator to the frame to make sure.  Did you check the 6 amp in line fuse - check it is not blown.  P.S.  I had to try a new regulator TWO times.  They are not made as well as they used to.  The second regulator did it, with all of the above that I mentioned.  Hope this helps.

Dennis DiBari

[Russ Austin]

The item circled is to suppress radio noise only. The capacitor for the points is on the coil.  Wde did discuss the ignition switch having 4 positions, are you in the "OFF" position and not the far left "ACC" position? 

Some aftermarket ignition switches do not have the ACC position. 

[Dave Fehrle]

Ok, I installed the new VR and then started the car and GEN light stayed on, no matter the RPM.  So then I kept the new VR and installed the regulator harness I bot from Russ(thanks). GEN light stayed on when I started. 
I did check the 6amp fuse and it was intact. I have never had GEN light stay on before all the “new” parts. Also, GEN light stayed on with and without the radio suppressor installed. 
I guess the next step is to test alt by disconnecting batt cable while running and see what happens?

Or should I get a different VR?I am having the alt rebuilt to 100 amp and will still have GEN light capability, is there a specific VR I should use? Solid state?

[Jason Edge]

GEN light can stay on if  your Alternator is bad or not creating current. A quick way to see if they are working is to take a steel wrench and touch the rear center section. If working, it will be magnetized and draw the wrench (or any other Metal) to it.

Another quick way to see if alternator is working (assuming cranking/charging wiring is all correct) is to crank the car and disconnect the positive battery cable while still running.  The car should continue to run from the output current of the alternator. 

And of course you can just have your alternator tested at most auto parts stores. 

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Hi Dave,

     While the car is running, what is the volt output on the voltmeter with everything connected?  You should be putting out about 14.3 volts.  My light stayed on last spring because the regulator was bad (the readings went from 9 volts to 17 volts - very erratic and dangerous).  Changed the harness, two regulators, double grounded the regulator, and had alternator rechecked.  Jason is right.  Get the alternator checked as well.  Dealt with this issue a few weeks back in the spring.

Dennis DiBari

[Dave Fehrle]

Before any of the changes, it was 16-17. Then only 12 and change after each change. I will test alt. 

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Dave,

     With the erratic shift in voltage, it sounds like a regulator.  Seventeen volts could blow your dash lights.  Be careful not to run it long.  Check alternator, then do the regulator.

Dennis DiBari

[Dave Fehrle]

With the new VR its at 12, so now I’m thinking alt is not charging enuf. 

[Dennis P. DiBari]

Correct.  Alternator may do it.

Dennis DiBari

[Jason Edge]

Pop the battery cable off while running. If it shuts off you know the alternator is not working as it should or wiring isn't correct. I would double check all the connections, especially at back of alternator.