STEERING GEAR

[Kim K Kaiser]

IN addition to the main seal leak,,which i am going to tackle again tomorrow,

i also have a leak in what seems to be the steering gear.  I have checked to connections from the pump, and its dry on top, but there is always a drip on the bottom of this part.  Idled, it leaks on to the exhaust pipe,, moving, it apparently gets blown back or drops behind the pipe.  pretty much the entire bottom of the part is wet or gunky,,

I read the manual on this thing, and it seems to have about 100 parts, bearings, washers springs, clips, etc.  There are pages and pages of information on this particular item..   

Is this a common leak, is it a repairable problem or is a replacement part required.  I read multiple topics in the help section and it looks like a rebuilt item is the way to go on this,  Are any other parts required for this.  i noticed one fellow said he had to get a coupler or something once he got it out and stripped it somehow.. so is there more to replace other than the gear once you remove it.. 

[Kim K Kaiser]

i just checked auto zone,, new ones are 668.00

[Jason Edge]

I have a large stock of VG, non-leaking steering gears for $85, or $75 to Chapter members such as yourself. They are HEAVY and shipping will be a bit but much less than your price on a new one. If interested email me at [e-mail] 

[Kim K Kaiser]

oh, good,, when i get to it next, i will contact you.

Are there any other auxiliary parts that need to be purchased like gaskets or rings or something that i need to purchase as part of a new installation?

[Jason Edge]

Your local auto parts store should have a Pitman arm puller to buy or rent or for loan. I think I picked mine up for about 15 to 20 bucks.  Once Pitman arm is pulled off gear, push it aside, completely remove the bolt at steering gear to steering column coupler (ragjoint) at steering gear side, pry apart a bit, disconnect the 2 fluid lines at gear.  You can leave the pitman arm attached to drag link.  Gear is held to frame with 3 large bolts thru side of frame. Steering gear is 32lb so be ready to support it as you unbolt it.  Pull the gear back and off the rag joint prying the rag joint forward.  When I part cars out I have already pulled the column and rag joint off the gear, so you just need to be careful as you pull off the gear not to break the masticated rubber that connects the two halves. As Mark noted be ready for some power steering coming out.  You can tape the power steering pressure and return line hoses with electric tape or plug or cap by other means to prevent some of the spillage at least out of the lines. I know you are up in Yellowstone Park (I think!) but if you have problem getting a puller I can go on Amazon or stop by the local auto parts store and pick one up for you when you get ready to pull and replace the steering gear.  

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok,  thanks,, i will have to get a good picture with description of those parts so i can follow along with your description,

[1bt7pektvt387]

Not to take a sale away from Jason but you should be able to find someone to rebuild your existing steering gear if you are able to remove it.

[Jason Edge]

Ian, I would much rather see him use use and rebuild the one he has.   Just to add, per the later Master Parts Books these were interchangeable for 1962 to 1966 Cadillacs, and 1967 to 70 except Eldorado.

[Kim K Kaiser]

When getting the car up,, do i need to allow the wheels to hang or can i use a ramp so i can get under there,,, i noticed from the rear main seal repair, it was best to have the wheels free, so that when i put the steering piece back on the frame, it would line up properly and i could get the screws back in...

[Jason Edge]

Mark, the pitman arm nut has been 1 1/2" on all the steering gears I have pulled. (With a caliper they will give you a reading of about 1 15/32") Still, this is a socket or wrench many may not have. While I have a set of large sockets and large wrenches, I usually break out the very large adjustable wrench.  A large adjustable wrench like the one I have (18" long, nuts up to 2.25") is a good investment since there are quite a few large nuts on these old cars (e.g. tie-strut bar, AC Lines, pinion nut, etc). Of course nothing like a 6pt socket on these nuts but the large adjustable wrench will be more versatile if you are going after one tool.  I will also say that while the nut will give you some resistance don't be scared of it. I'm using 1/2" impact wrench when I back them off, but can feel the initial resistance.  Inspect your tool closely, and make sure the flanges are equally secured behind the pitman arm, before backing it off. I've backed over 50 off with never breaking that particular tool... still have the same one I bought in the late 90's as I recall, but these rentals/loaners may have been used hundreds of times.  

[2920a2crpjlyd]

Steering gear on my 64 Sedan Deville was leaking, tried a rebuilt unit, it was junk, steering wheel would turn by itself!

Tried another original used one, but it leaked also.

Ended up rebuilding mine myself with a kit from RockAuto for less than $30. A little tricky but no special tools needed, if you're handy you can handle it. These Saginaw gear boxes were used in many GM cars from the 60's to the 70's, there are many Youtube  videos to help guide you through the rebuild along with the shop manual.

I've done 2 of them and both work great with no leaks.