A while back, I had asked about a remote battery disconnect. I found EXACTLY what I was looking for. 

I was tired of popping the hood every morning and every evening to reconnect and disconnect the battery to prevent any drainage or electrical issued. IMO, its better the car is COMPLETLY dead when not in use. 

I installed the Painless Performance Remote Disconnect with a Latching Solenoid Part # 30206

Installation was easy. The kit came with nearly everything that is needed. I purchased an additional length of battery cable to have on hand if needed. Basically, what this does is disconnect the + cable end with a button inside the cabin of the car. All the button does is ground out the solenoid and open or close it. 

The + bat cable is run to one side of the solenoid and then I hooked the factory + cable to the other side of the solenoid. The alternator WILL charge thru the solenoid, the charge wire can be hooked directly into the solenoid. 

From there, there are two very thing gauge wires that are run to wherever you want the kill switch. One is the ground controlling wire, the other is a 10A fused always on + connection to run things like the clock and radio presets if you've upgraded your radio. 

There were already 2 perfect sized holes in the side of my lower dash that are barely visible from the previous owner, so the momentary button that controls the ground side fit perfect in that space and is hardly noticeable when the door is closed. From there, you just run another ground wire to a ground source under the dash. 

It works perfectly! When I am ready to jump in the car and leave, one click of the button latches the solenoid and is then powered off in the connected state. Then when I get to where I am going, I shut the car down and the click of a button, the solenoid re latched and is powered off in the disconnected state. No feed to the fuse block at all. Once my clock is refurbished, I'll wire that into the always on PowerSource. For now, that wire is bundled up and capped off under the dash until I need it. 

I wired the solenoid on the PS in the engine bay near the factory voltage regulator. From there, ran the two wires along with some others and then thru the fire wall port at the rear center of the engine bay. Wires popped out in the perfect spot! I did have to remove the lower dash to gain access to everything.

Anyhow, figured this might be a good addition to those who still use manual disconnect switches. I just got tired of ALWAYS forgetting to unhook or rehook the battery and always being under the hood. Now its as simple as pushing a button!

I will add some photos in a while

Enjoy! 

Logan. 

Views: 144

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Here’s a close up of the button install. 

Need to find some touch up paint. Previous guy drilled those pesky holes and the bit wandered

Attachments:

That's very interesting. You could've gone the next step and hidden the switch, to make it an anti-theft device.

Let us know how it works over time.  It's a novel idea, but I typically don't like introducing additional possible failure points into an electrical system.  But, like you, I dislike having to deal with battery cables all the time on my classic cars. 

However, I always disconnect the battery whenever the car will be not driven for a few days. Heard too many stories of classics burning while just sitting there. Old Mopars are notorious for this, it seems.  Any old vehicle with an ammeter instead of a volt meter is at risk. 

Thanks! Yes, I thought about making it hidden, such as like the ash tray. But I didn't want to modify too much and the hole in the dash was already there, so that was the most logical choice. 

I am also curious to see how this works over time. Because it is only a momentary solenoid, its default state is powered off in what ever position you left it in. So its only "powered on" when the button is clicked and changes states. Out side of that, it just sits idle. It should stay out of the elements where its location in the engine bay, so I am thinking this should last a good long while. 

I still maintained my manual disconnect as I, like you, will still disconnect the battery when sitting for more than over night. This just helps for long stretches of good days when I just want to jump in and go. 

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

Dipstick seal

Started by Tosh Dickenson in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion 1 hour ago. 0 Replies

There appears to be some kind of felt washer around the top of my oil dipstick, presumable to seal off the dipstick tube. I've looked around the usual parts suppliers but came up empty. There's not…Continue

Transmission questions

Started by James Fraschieri in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Russ Austin on Friday. 8 Replies

Hello all. New member and new to classic cadillacs so I have some questions. Last year I got my hands on a resto-mod 63 coupe deville project and have been making good progress till now. I don't have…Continue

Sneak Peak at our Next Newsletter Feature - Roy Brosi's 1963 Convertible & 1964 Airstream

Started by Jason Edge in Newsletters. Last reply by Dennis P. DiBari on Thursday. 1 Reply

I have been slowly plugging away at our next newsletter which will feature Roy Brosi's 1963 Convertible and his 1964 Airstream Camper and thought I would give you all a "Sneak Peek" at our next…Continue

WTS 1964 Sedan Deville w/all options 20k

Started by Tim in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by C. Van Tune on Thursday. 2 Replies

1964 Sedan Deville with the original 429 engine and TH400 transmission. Engine has approximately 91k miles on the odometer and runs very well. I've replaced the plugs with NOS AC44 plugs, replaced…Continue

Blog Posts

Loud air moving sound within carb with cleaner removed

Posted by Dave Fehrle on March 23, 2024 at 3:23pm 8 Comments

While checking my Carter carb with engine running, I took the air cleaner off and there was a very loud hissing sound of air. I placed a piece of paper over the carb and it didn’t move up or down, is this normal?

Vintage Air AC

Posted by Chase on March 21, 2024 at 5:55am 0 Comments

Hey everyone, has anybody done a Vintage Air AC/Heat setup in their car? I want to bypass the old vacuum setup and go with a Vintage Air Gen 2 model. Before I get started, does anyone have any experience with this? (Which model to go with, do’s and dont’s, etc.) It looks pretty involved. Any and all info/pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

accumulator dryer

Posted by CHRIS CARLSON on December 6, 2023 at 10:54am 0 Comments

Who rebuilds original AC  accumulator dryers for 1964 Cadillac? I have been on Classic auto air in Tampa FL wait list for over a year ,  There is one on Old air products web site that looks very similar to the original # 21-4214A but states it fits 1962 Gm cars, The one recommended for a 1964 Cadillac is half the length 21-4215A    What  is everyone using ? I would prefer to be as original as possible. Thanks

'63 Eldorado trumpet horn + 2 standard horns restoration

Posted by Les Eastling on November 15, 2023 at 10:34am 1 Comment

My son, unbeknownst to me, had all three of the horns on our 1963 Eldorado completely restored. We had recently added the Eldorado trumpet horn to the two standard horns and the sound was not very good... we had heard good ones so we knew something was not right... but there was not much we could do to get better sound from the 3 horns. 

There is a restoration service called The Horn Works who my son…

Continue

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2024   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service