Hello, and thanks for adding to group!
I am restoring 1964 429 engine which I bought as dismantled. It is said to be smoking in driving and has been stored as parts for a year. It is most probably 65500 miles driven. Car was not driven for10 years.
The only damaged part found so far is the top of exhaust valve of cylinder #5. The top has been worn so much that the rocker has been pressing valve locks as well. Respective rocker is worn as well, much more than others. And exhaust rocker #6 is worn as well, and exhaust #8.
1. What damage could this cause? I can think that valve lift gets a bit smaller than it should, but so what?
2. Is that common for Cadillac 429 exhaust valves to worn from the top, especially cylinders #5 and #6? Maybe there is less oil.
This is my first V8 engine project. I have Shop manual. I plan to replace piston rings, all gaskets, nylon timing gear, some worn exhaust valves and rockers, and valve stem o-rings. Bearings, pistons and shafts are in good condition.
Big thanks in advance!
The most likely cause, obvious cause, for rocker and top end wear is a clogged up rocker shaft that's not allowing oil out through the oil holes. You will need to make sure the shafts are replaced if worn out and completely clear and clean for reassembly.
Look at the head bolts, the grey coating is powdered aluminum that came from the lower end. It looks like you have bad cam or main bearings, and the oil flowed out through those high clearances, causing low pressure and a starved top end. If the block was never cleaned, there will be cakes of that grey in the valley, a tell tale for a worn out lower end.
I was wondering what is that grey stuff here and there. It is not only those long bolts but in many places in heads and the block. The bearings do not look much worn though. I need to check the bearing clearances. The block has been cleaned by engine shop, the heads are not yet cleaned.
Could that grey stuff be some kind of anti-seize material used by previous owners? There is no grey stuff in oil pump and not in oil pan. Cam, crank and bearings are in good condition.
The Teflon cam gears are no longer available or desirable to be replacing
You want to replace the gear with an all metal one that is available for replacement
If you now have the Teflon cam gear in reasonably good condition it is a good sign the engine has lower mileage as these Teflon covered gears will come apart in higher mileage cars and leave broken Teflon parts in the oil pan when they come apart
The rocker arms and top of the valve stem wear is of coarse a lack of lubrication getting to those places
I have ——very often on this site read about —expert engine builders— putting the rocker arms on a newly rebuilt engines backwards which would prevent the rocker arms from oiling the heads as they should be doing —which is hell on a new engine break in for the engines future longevity
The fact the other parts of the engine seam to be sound and in fairly new sound condition and possibly the result of a recent rebuild brought the incorrect installation of the rocker arms and lack of lubrication there to mind
I am on this site twice a day since 2006 and have not ever seen anyone with the top of the valve stem wear you are showing which is excessive
Rocker arm wear— without the top of the valve stem wear you are showing would be more of the normal wear often seen
Sure the kind of valve train wear you are showing here would be responsible for a very very loud noisy top end of a 429 engine running and possibly the reason the engine was taken apart
The up side being— just having to rebuild the heads to get back to a good sound running engine is a blessing with the low end of the engine in good form from your inspection so far
The coating on the head bolts and other engine bolts could be an ant- seize compound which is a good practice
I do not see any metal fragments from wear on the inside or the heads myself
Getting there, slowly but surely. All pistons in place and timing chain. Next timing chain cover. There are two broken bolts so need fix those first.
The addition of valve seals is a very good thing especially for the intake valves as the piston is sucking as much fuel into its cylinder as it can
That would include any oil or air between the valve and valve guides especially as wear happens as miles get added on the engine and clearances increase there
An Intake valve seal —-will give the cylinder a better fuel charge from the intake manifold intake mixture
Will be keeping oil from entering the cylinder from around the valve guides ( heads ) and getting to the spark plugs which will foul the plugs if too much oil gets to the plugs
The protection they offer is more important as wear and clearances increase
Actually a bit surprised valve seals are not stock on our engines as they are designed so very very well ( bullet proof and made to last )
I like to add a top oil to my gasoline to lube my internal carb parts - the valve stems —and the top of the cylinders above the rings— but that choice is your own ( snake oil ?? ) or extra lubrication protection ?
My snake oil is - Marvelous Mystery oil
I have found dowel pins at Ace hardware before.
You shouldnt use a solid dowel pin, that hole is used for oil return from the head so the pin cant be solid.
I have drilled out my own a bit to increase the return flow