Convertible Top Cylinder Removal

[Brian Wiseman]

Just wanted to check before removing my 1964 convertible top cylinders.  I have the instructions from the 1964 shop manual.  I have identified, in Red #s, the bolts in the procedure with the images.  For those who have removed the cylinders please verify the accuracy of matching the procedure with the images. 

Procedure: 

[Chris Codd]

Hi there. I did this job about 6 years ago for my convertible removing the cylinders while I was replacing the top motor. You'll definitely want to mark off each bolt so you can line everything back up when putting it back together. I don't really recall if I actually followed that exact order of disassembly, but you might have to tilt the top back to get at some of the bolts easier if I remember correctly. I believe I skipped removing the #2 bolt. 

Some tips: You will want some rag towels ready to catch the brake oil that comes out of the cylinders when you remove the hydraulic lines. 

If you're replacing the top motor, most recommend that you replace the existing (yellow) brake fluid with transmission fluid. You'll have to compress the cylinders (if you're reusing them) by hand to drain out the fluid and I'd definitely recommend replacing the lines while you're doing this. If you're replacing both cylinders, lines, and the motor you can just add the fresh ATF. 

That screw holding the cylinder in can be an absolute bear to get out. You'll have to muscle it out. I'd recommend putting the bracket and cylinder in a vice. 

Don't forget some Loctite sealer on the tubes that screw into the cylinder when reassembling. 

Best of luck and if you have any questions, I'll do what I can to help you out. 

[Brian Wiseman]

Chris, 

I am replacing the motor, both cylinders, and all the hydraulic lines.  The shop manual removal procedure has step 1:  is to bring the top up and lock it to the windshield header.  However, it sounds like you had to move the top to access some of the bolts?  

Another question for you as a convertible owner is did you have your pinch-weld molding  re-installed  at any time on the car?  Do you have a source for the clips as mine are rusty and old.  

Thanks again for all your help!

[Chris Codd]

Since I skipped removing bolt #2 that's probably why I needed to adjust the top. Go with the manual's directions and hopefully you won't have trouble accessing some of the bolts like I did.

I had the top replaced back around 2007, but I didn't do the install. I have no idea if they needed to remove the pinch-weld molding or not but it looked untampered with when I got the car back. I'm not quite sure where to source those clips, I'm sorry. Might talk to your local upholsterers as they probably will have the source for them. 

[Russ Austin]

I recently replaces the hydraulic system in a 63 convert.  You may need to move the actuator mount blocks around to get to the mount bolt, but just follow the instructions as written.  The shop manual is well written.

[Brian Wiseman]

Thanks Russ!

[Brian Wiseman]

I was able to remove the motor and both cylinders with no issues per the shop manual.  With Chris's tip to put the cylinder in a vice I was able to easily remove the screws.  Now onto the sandblaster to cleanup the brackets! 

[Chris Codd]

Glad to hear it went off without a hitch! I'm sure you'll have it back together in no time. Happy cruisin'!