1963 SDV - Misc Update

[Tom Bahner]

Thought I would report back on my latest investment in my "rolling bank account". I finally found someone with  knowledge of these old rigs that actually cares about whether things are right when they leave his shop

The original radiator  had some green spots in it and some of the fins were starting to separate. It wasn't leaking yet, but figured it was just a matter of time. After considering re-coring the original or replacing, I opted to replace. Since I'm not "restoring" the car, I purchased an aluminum rad off epay for about $200.It fit ok, but we did have to trim the shroud a bit as the transmission cooling line fittings  weren't quite in the same place as the original. All else fit fine.  Drove it about 100 mi. yesterday and noticed it ran a little warmer but I attribute that to the change from a 160 degree thermostat to a 180 degree.

Mechanic noticed a few bushing in front end needing replaced, and also replaced ball joints. He couldn't believe the place I had it aligned a month ago didn't say anything about them. After alignment, he actually got my steering wheel straight. The last shop said the steering gear had play and they couldn't get it straight! Another case of techs that don't know older rides. Drives great now.

Also replaced all the hoses, belts, fuel line, valve cover gaskets, etc. The mechanic even painted the valve covers and rad shroud.

Sadly, the AC has a leak somewhere under the dash.Was hoping to have a cool ride, but no joy yet. Would be interested in what others have done for their AC system. It appears no one makes a kit for these cars. Would like the air to come out of the original vents. If you have any suggestions let me know. Kind of in the process comparing cost of  installing system for R134 rather than messing with the old R12. Any advice appreciated.

Sorry for the boring post but wanted to let people know what I found on the rad. replacement.

Tom B

[David Thomas]

Hi Frank, Hope you have a happy 4th weekend!

Early on, like you have done, I bought one of the kits that blocks off the STV. If I remember correctly, it had a cycling switch and some aircraft sealant with a block off diaphragm. I had an automotive A/C shop install it for me, big disappointment. The block off diaphragm leaked refrigerant and the mechanic butchered the cycling switch sensor. After that, I took it to another shop and they completely removed the STV, capped off the oil bleed line, installed a receiver tank and put a new suction hose from the tank to the compressor. At that time, putting the receiver tank on the evaporator tail pipe was the only way they had to adapt the suction hose fitting to the evaporator outlet. I tried using the kits cycling switch but could never get it to work without either freezing the evaporator or not cooling the passenger compartment.

I went to NAPA and browsed their switch catalog, found one that looked like I could make work. It had a straight averaging sensing element on it, that was the only issue. To make a sensing bulb out of the straight averaging sensor, I chose a long slender Phillips screwdriver in my tool box. I tightly wrapped the element in a coil long enough to fit the length of the exposed evaporator tail pipe and slipped it off the Phillips screwdriver shaft. I put the bulb coil on the tail pipe with the old clamp and wrapped it in the sticky tar insulation tape. The remaining sensor tube became a capillary from the bulb to switch mechanism. I put the switch on the blower housing with the adjusting knob facing up so I could adjust it to provide the proper cycle pressures.

You may have better luck with the kit than I did, or your kit may be a better kit. I'll have to say I didn't have good luck using the kit I bought. My only regret to switching out the STV is; I let the STV valve get away from me when the shop removed it to put that receiver tank in. Since going the cycle switch route, I've put well over 100K miles on my car, with the A/C keeping my wife and I cool in the summer.

David

[David Thomas]

When you say the A/C has a leak under the dash, do you mean the vacuum control system leaks? Or, does the refrigerant circuit leak?

The Vacuum hoses, if original, should be replaced if they are not soft and flexible. You can check the damper actuators with a mighty-vac to see if they will operate and hold a vacuum. The dash pad is easy to remove, you can trace the vacuum lines by looking down inside the dash panel.

Parts are available for the refrigeration circuit, I'd keep it stock if possible. I'm still running R-12 in my 63, the only thing I have changed, is the Suction Throttling Valve on the evaporator tail pipe. I removed it and installed a receiver tank in it's place, then put an adjustable thermostatic clutch cycling switch that senses the evaporator tail pipe to cycle the compressor. I did this over 20 years back and it works great. The reason I removed the STV, I couldn't find a replacement for it 20 years ago and mine was not working correctly. Eliminating the valve and cycling the compressor solved the problem.

David