7 vacuum valve-need a good one or someone to recondition mine

[Norman Silverman]

So, I've put my 7 vacuum valve from the control head side to the test, and it failed. I looked at the instructions for re-conditioning it and unless I am missing something, the instructions are missing something (about how to take off the clip that provides the tension that holds the two pieces together). 

In any case, I can't do this particular repair so I am looking for a new valve (not likely), or a good re-conditioned one, or someone who has done this before and would do mine for just compensation.

[Norman Silverman]

Nope. In my early years I was always a "Heavy Metal Guy" which meant I had lots of big Buicks, Caddies, Olds', Imperials, etc., and only about a half dozen Chevies, none of which was Nova. Also, when I was a kid I had NO patience so I was limited in what I would/could do. Now that I'm older I have found that along with the gray hair came this thing called PATIENCE. Now, I even read the factory service manual before I do a repair, or if it is a car where I know there's a junker handy, I'll first try the repair on the junker so I learn what mistakes I don't want to make. 

[Norman Silverman]

Yup, this is the place for answers and camaraderie. 

Ironically, the only part of my system that is working correctly (and does not leak) is the refrigeration side-and it is still on R-12, so my efforts are concentrated on the part of the system that determines where the air is directed and how much heat is blended in. I have no objection to spending money but I like to know that what i am buying is the right thing, installed by careful and knowledgeable people. Right now I am still discovering what I will need to purchase. I think I know, but will have a better idea after I get the vacuum system working properly.

THANKS!

PS: When I was a kid (17) I used to drive from Coney Island to the dealers on Sunrise Highway (Nick Pellegrino Chrysler-Plymouth; Ted Rowland Ford; Sunrise Lincoln Merc; Gray Cadillac) and buy their "iron" (trade in cars too old for them to retail or wholesale) for $25 to $50. I would then do a tune-up or whatever light maintenance they needed and re-sell them for a profit. 

[Norman Silverman]

Thanks. At my age (72) I grew up in an electro-mechanical world-and I'm still far more comfortable working in it than with electronics. Rebuilding an AFB is also not a challenge as I've done several of them over the years. What's taking a little more time is developing a comfortable working familiarity with the underlying engineering and operating characteristics of GM-based HVAC products vs MOPAR based HVAC products, which are designed very differently, and with which I've had extensive experience in the last 20 or so years. Before that I had lots of Caddy's, Buicks, Olds, Pontiacs and Chevies, but have not had my hands on the innards of a Caddy for quite some time. As an interesting aside, I'd rather have my hands under the dash of a GM product than a MOPAR, because if you blindly put your hands inside the dash of the latter they are guaranteed to come out torn to shreds. Not so with GM products. 

[Norman Silverman]

Mark/Clovis. Thanks for the quick responses. Yes, the first thing I did was to check for vacuum and its there. In fact I also removed the small section of black vacuum feed hose that had the restrictor in it. Years ago, I had a 67 (actually 2 of them) and the system in one of them had a vacuum leak I could not find, so I removed the restrictor (a much bigger thing by then and easily accessible in the engine compartment) and the system worked fine after that. No such luck here. I tested the Valve per the book and it failed, even with stronger vacuum input. My problem in doing the job is not re-surfacing the two pieces, I get that-and I'm capable of doing that. The thing that has me bugged (don't laugh) is re-attaching them with a rivet; I've never worked with rivets, nor am I particularly skilled at drilling stuff out.

As to an out-of-round condition, I see what you are pointing out but doubt that will be the case with my valve; the action is smooth, tight and the two halves move around each other in complete concentricity with no wobble. Famous last words.......

As to the valve that was screwed together, the troubleshooting book says that only the valve on the control head is riveted, the one on the power arm is not, so it sounds like it is a more straightforward repair. For me, the easiest thing to do is get an already reconditioned valve or get somebody with experience to do it for me, or to buy a new one-but they seem to be in the category of "unobtainium" these days. 

The upside is I finally feel like I am beginning to understand the system, and when that happens I usually manage to figure out and fix whatever I might be working on. Most of my HVAC experience is with MOPARS (Imperials, actually) and even though the ones I have and have had were too old for Auto-Temp, their vacuum systems were not as easy to work on as these (vacuum manifold-valve has to be repaired by an expert). Mercifully, they have their heater cores in the engine compartment and are VERY easy to remove/replace.

Much appreciation for the input. 

[Norman Silverman]

CORRECTION: I didn't think through what would happen if you drill out the rivet and pull apart the two pieces; the spring clip and assembly would also come out and the two inside pieces could then be smoothed to bring them back to air-tight status. My bad. However, I still can't do it.