HVAC Vacuum Valve Clip-need the one for the Power Control side

[Norman Silverman]

Hi.

Update:

I removed both 7 nipple vacuum valves and called my buddy who owns a machine shop. Tomorrow we'll re-surface the valve faces and then I'll reinstall them. HOWEVER, the one that comes out easily and comes apart with no rivet is on the Power module side. It installs on one side with a small bolt, and on the other it is held on by a clip, WHICH IS MISSING ON MY CAR. I am going to assume it is the same clip that is used on the Control Module side. Anybody got one? Happy to pay for it. 

Thanks

Norm 

[Norman Silverman]

Don't personally know Tony, nor his age but I entered the service in 1969, so I'm likely older than you. (I get the respect thing).

[Norman Silverman]

Interesting, Clovis.

I admire people like you who like to utilize modern day knowledge and technology to improve the performance of our old machines. My perspective is a little different.

I could never do half the things I do now when I was a kid because I had no patience to understand the underlying technology, nor to take my time to perform the repairs. So, I now take great joy in being able to understand and operate in this "yester-tech" environment because it gives me satisfaction to finally master it as it was designed to operate, warts and all. 

Oh, about the "sir" thing; I was enlisted (true) so you don't have to call me "sir"!

[Norman Silverman]

Thanks for the heads-up.

Actually, I'm what you'd call a "Strict Constructionist" so I'm ok with rebuilding what originally came with the car. Everything usually fits better, too. 

[Norman Silverman]

Update: I sent my Power module and a spare Transducer in to Classic Auto Air in Florida. Rebuilding BOTH parts comes to around $200. Hopefully, the hurricane won't hit them and I'll get my stuff back in about 2 weeks, working like new. Fingers crossed.

[Norman Silverman]

I won't tell you how old I am, but I will tell you that when I hear the word "NIKE" I think of a missile, not a shoe. (google it)

[Norman Silverman]

It was a moment of triumph (I hope). I very much enjoy the comments, encouragement, knowledge (and even the occasional ribbing) from members. While I have had lots of Caddies with Comfortron (2 65's; 3 66's; 2 67's; 2 68's) I owned them mostly long ago, when the Comfortron systems worked perfectly, so the most I ever had to do was on one of my 67's where removing the vacuum restrictor restored operations to new. More on this project when I have it to report.

[Norman Silverman]

Agreed. Only thing is the Heat/AC door is actuated by the Power Servo, not its own solenoid. As I became more familiar with how this system works, it slowly dawned on me that its malfunction was a possibility. When I disconnected the power servo arm from the Heat/AC door rod and moved it manually I saw that it had LOTS more travel in it than what I observed when the power module moved it. That was the key. 

[Jason Edge]

As much as I respect Tim Groves Diagnostics book, the very 1st thing I will do when I do my "deep dive" into my Comfort control system is test ALL vacuum actuators and vacuum components before I do anything.  This will include the mode door actuator, recirculation door actuator, power servo diaphragm, transducer, and Suction Throttle Valve. If any of these will not hold 15 to 20 inches of mercury it will not matter if the power servo or dash control rotary valves are good or if you have replaced the old loose fitting vacuum  hoses with new nice tight-n-snug hoses. I would say 95% of the recirculation actuators I have brought in have been busted, 2/3's of the STV's, transducers and power servos do not hold vacuum. Only the mode door actuators tucked away inside the air box, is the only one that seems to have a good survival rate!

[Norman Silverman]

In short, yes; but it holds a certain amount of vacuum before it won't hold enough to travel to all positions required. It was your post that got me thinking about what the system would be doing in this weather. It occurred to me that if it was already warm in the car, the most I would get out of the heater setting would likely be LOW fan on heat-because the sensors already detected the hot air in the car. So, as I watched the arm travel from AC to Heat, I realized it was not traveling very far. Then, I disconnected the traveling arm from the heater/ac door rod and moved it manually; it resulted in an air stream where I needed it. So, I took the power servo (thanks) off to see what would happen if I fed it the correct amount of vacuum (10 in) with my pump and took off the protective cover so that I could watch the arm go to each of its required electrical stations. It won't. The spring tension it has to fight in order to get to the last 3 or 4 stations is so severe it cannot overcome that tension with vacuum-partly because it is a strong tension and partly because I think it has a tiny leak, but just tiny enough to let the bellows retract a bit before it stops responding. So now I am going to concentrate on getting the power module rebuilt and sealing the leak in the plenum. Thanks!

[Norman Silverman]

EUREKA! I'VE FOUND IT!

The Power Module will not cycle past the first two positions no matter how much vacuum is applied.The spring tension on the arm is so great, the bellows cannot overcome it.  This and a leak around the main duct seal appear to be the  culprits. Now, to have it repaired.