hi al
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OK Tony - I first just used a spray degreaser to clean the grills. Then I used a brand of paint called Dy Mark but its Aussie made so what I would say is get a good quality paint off the shelf. I paid $12 for the etch primer tin and about $18 for the top coat (silver gloss).. The etch primer was flat grey/silver - use that first - - let that dry - recoat - then use the top coat. The results are not concour but see from the pics, for a 2 hour job costing about $30 its more that acceptable.
ok job done I will upload a picture(s) soon. the dilema is how much time and money should one spend on the grill? .. in my case the car is not and never will be concor so a cost effective solution was needed. I got a tin of spray etch primer. removed top grill and used it on there first. the etch primer fills in the scrathces and allows a surface for the top coat. then used same brand good quality top coat, silver and its a treat. OK up very close you can see it has defects but from a short distance it shines nicely. only problem I had was the bottom grill mount screw bolts are rusted on so I painited the lower grill on the car instead - just took longer to mask off the rest.... pics to come
Bill, that is great info. If you have any specific YouTube links please post. My brute force WD 40/0000 Steel Wool method is of course just a quick clean up method and sure there are other, better techniques. Jason.
RE: removing the anodized coating on aluminum parts, there is a guy (restodan) on YouTube that shows how he uses liquid hair & grease remover (sold at Home Depot etc) to remove the anodizing, then uses Mothers Mag & Aluminum wheel polish, in the video he shows the result and comparison after using the drain cleaner, quite a difference. I am in the process of rebuilding a 64 grill and can say it turns out quite well. There are many videos of him restoring a 63 impala in his driveway, very interesting and informative, some excellent tips if you are so inclined.
Often you get an oxidized coating on top of the anodized aluminum. For a grill that has the "road grime and oxidation" nothing beats 0000 steel wool and WD 40. While you don't want to dig too deep and rub too hard and rub through the anodized layer, this method has enough abrasion to go right through oxidation and improve the looks of a grill 25 to 50% about as fast as you can wrap the WD coated 0000 steel wool around your finger and slide between each slat. I've had people in the garage look at a perfectly straight but heavily oxidized grill, and hit a couple of slates like this and just go WOW!
Using fine steel wool is a matter of common sense. Just as you wouldn't use fine steel wool on "new chrome" as it will dull it, this method works perfectly for old, weathered, slightly pitted oxidized chrome or anodized aluminum that has seen better days.
yes I am reading about how you can de-anodise the aluminium but way too much trouble. cleaning is best done with warm water and suds it seems.
It's anodized aluminum and over the years, loses it's coating that gives it the shine. You can polish it with compounds specifically made for anodized aluminum, but you have to be careful because anything abrasive could make it worse. Re-anodizing is expensive and I have heard people paying up to a grand to have it done. I heard that the kitchen product, "pam" worked and tried it. It actually does help the shine, but it really does not last very long.
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My son, unbeknownst to me, had all three of the horns on our 1963 Eldorado completely restored. We had recently added the Eldorado trumpet horn to the two standard horns and the sound was not very good... we had heard good ones so we knew something was not right... but there was not much we could do to get better sound from the 3 horns.
There is a restoration service called The Horn Works who my son…
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