Dip Stick Tube: Removing from Engine Block Without Damaging

[Jason Edge]

Here is another one of the tricks I learned over the years and included in our March 2013 Newsletter and will share here:

 

Removing the Oil Dipstick Tube

by Jason Edge

This might seem like an easy task but removing and installing a dipstick tube in an engine block without damaging the tube is not that easy, but I have a sure fire “trick” that I will share with everyone.   The problem is if you just try to grip the tube with pliers and twist and turn out, or even worse take a hammer and punch out from the bottom, you are guaranteed to damage the tube.  

For removing the tube, the trick is to take a deep set 11mm 12 point socket and slide on the bottom of the tube, and gently tap the socket with hammer, pushing it out.  You will be able to remove the tube up to a point before the lip of the socket hits the bottom of the block.  You can then take an 11mm open end wrench and put around the tube next to the seat ring and tap the wrench head with hammer to drive the tube the remainder of the way out. (Note: if tube is sliding out nice and smooth with deep set socket, you can switch to a short regular 11mm 12 point socket, once you reach the block with deep set socket, to push it through that much farther without switching to the open end wrench).

 

For inserting the tube, lube the block where tube is inserted with WD40 and set the 11mm open end wrench head against the seat ring and gently tap the tube into the block until the seat ring is against the block.  I have removed and installed at least a dozen dip stick tubes in this manner over the years and works perfectly every time.

Note: 7/16" Socket & Wrench will work but 11mm will give you a tighter fit.

[Jason Edge]

Thanks for the update with pictures. Confirms all tubes need to be checked when installed regardless of which engine!

[Jason Edge]

Thanks Ricky and Mark, I have updated my notes to indicate 64 and later 429's need to check clearance when installing the dipstick tube. I went back and re-read the MPB entry and sure reads to me that it was not an issue in 1964... but apparently that is not the case. Here is the MPB entry:

1959; 1960; 1962 thru 1964; 65-75    *147 1858   5 1.05 1

* When used on 1963 see Feb., 1963 issue of The Cadillac Serviceman for installation instructions.

[Jason Edge]

....one of those quirks about these engines. When I rebuild my engine in 2012 I think I might have had to bend it back slightly ... but cannot find any notes other than those I have already posted. Regardless, it is a good idea to check clearance when installing the dipstick tube. It's a pain but the oil pan needs to be dropped to check.

[Jason Edge]

Ricky Tee. Did you see the previous replies on this thread regarding the dipstick tube? Here is a recap:
The Master Parts Book indicates the following regarding dipstick tube installation: "When used on 1963, bend tube 1/2" away from connecting rod bearing cap after installing in crankcase." Also, I have only seen the note about bending the oil indicator tube in the Feb 1963 Serviceman bulletin (page 8), and do not see anything in the 1964 Shop Manual or 1964 Serviceman bulletins.  I believe they corrected the problem for 64 so you can just drive it in but I always check anyway as I put a block together. 
Bottom line --> check that the tube is 1/2' away from the bearing cap. 
It is also assumed that you are using the correct 1963/64 specific dipstick. The original dipstick is approx. 20" from the top of cap down to the tip.  If measuring from the bottom side of the cap you can subtract about 1/8" for a total of approx. 19 7/8".

[Jason Edge]

I am out of pulled dipstick tubes but will get a measurement the next time I pulled one.  The Master Parts book says the following regarding installing a new dipstick tube:  "When used on 1963, bend tube 1/2" away from connecting rod bear cap after installing in crankcase." Also, I have only seen the note about bending the oil indicator tube in the Feb 1963 Serviceman bulletin (page 8), and do not see anything in the 1964 Shop Manual or 1964 Serviceman bulletins.  I believe they corrected the problem for 64 but not 100% sure. Either way  you should be able to bend back a bit if hitting.

[Jason Edge]

From our Engine and Transmission Facts Help Topic article at http://6364cadillac.ning.com/profiles/blogs/enginesandtransmissions

-The 1963 390 was a totally redesigned engine compared to the 62 and earlier 390's. It was 50+ lbs lighter, engine accessories including the distributor was moved to the front and used a new aluminum engine cover that incorporated the oil pump. Nearly 1/2" was shaved off the top of the block, connecting rods were shortened to keep the same compression ratio, block length was shortened by more than an inch.  They switched to a hollow-cast crank, which is 11 pounds lighter than the 1962 crankshaft, and switched to an alternator-rectifier charging system, which saved an another 10 lbs over the generator used in 1962. The bore, stroke and horsepower (325) were the same as the 62 390 however this was a lighter, more agile 390 than the old design.

[Jason Edge]

I see in the Master Parts book under Parts Group 1.516, Engine Oil Level Indicator Tube it has

1959;1960; 1962-1964; 65-75  ...... 147 1858
"When used on 1963, bend tube 1/2" away from connecting rod bearing cap after installing in Crankcase."

With the note distinguishing the 1963 separately from all the other years, I think it is safe to assume you can install the tube without any bending in the 1964 429, (or 1959,60, 62).

[Jason Edge]

It's a 64 429 and engine has already been installed. I can't find any literature indicating that for the 64 429 it has to be bent but do not want to mislead anyone. I would assume that since the bulletin came out in Feb 1963 it was addressed with the slight changes made with the 429 block but again not 100% sure. I am pretty sure I installed mine and it was at the correct position when I rebuilt mine but didn't take any notes.

[Jason Edge]

Just had a question about installing the oil indicator tube (dipstick tube) and was going through my notes and have the following:

"I have only seen the note about bending the oil indicator tube in the Feb 1963 Serviceman bulletin (page 8), and do not see anything in the 1964 Shop Manual or 1964 Serviceman bulletins.  I believe they corrected the problem for 64 so you can just drive it in but I always check anyway as I put a block together."

I sort of remember not having to bend my tube when I rebuilt my 1964 429 engine in 2012, but memory is fuzzy on this one. Does anyone have any additional info on the 1964 oil indicator tube installation or references to having to also bend the tube in 1964?

 

[Jason Edge]

Kevin, I do not know of a way to grasp and pull from the top. If your tube is toast anyway you can give it a shot with penetrating oil/lube and a vice grips but you can write the tube off.  This pushing it out with a tight snug socket contacting multi points from below is the only way I have found that always works.  If you can get a small vice grip on the seat ring and work out enough to get the 11mm open wrench end underneath you might can work it out but you still need room to get a good lock with a hammer on the bottom side of the wrench head.