Hello,

      My 63 convertible is a low mileage (34k) original car so while I've done some basics, like replacing radiator hoses, belts, and a few gaskets; I've been trying to leave things as is as much as possible.  My heater core hose was original and had a bit of the factory blue paint over spray on it.  This is the one that is routed over the top of the valve cover on the passenger side.  Unfortunately the damn thing blew out the other day in 106 heat and I had to replace it.  As usual the kids at the parts counter couldn't match it up, but I've been going to some of these places for 20-30 years now so they let me in the back to see what I could find.  I was prepared to have to make due with something close, but after a long search I actually came up with the correct hose (5/8" i.d. black).  It's a Gates #19037.  I just thought that we might want to make note of this so that it won't be a problem for someone else.  The larger upper and lower radiator hoses are available from a number of sources, but I've seen a lot of cars with orange/red replacements for the heater hoses and if you get straight hose, you'll risk a kink at the bend as it passes from the front of the engine and turns to route over the valve cover on its way to the firewall.  There's a spring clamp on the proximal end and a tower clamp on the distal end.  If you're careful both clamps can be reused, new ones are available.

Ken Karrer

CenTex CLC Regional Director

1963 series 62 Convertible (triple green, Basildon)

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Tony,

      Thanks and  Yes sir.  I've replaced them.  I was just balking on this one due to the originality and factory over spray, but I'll get over it.  I'll just remove the white lettering with some lacquer thinner and move on.  Rock Auto and the like have sometimes been a disappointment.  I restore and and work on a lot of cars and need to get the right stuff the first time.  Fusick, McVey's, and OPGI are usually my first go to's. You're right about making the cut at the core outlet.  Those things "rust weld" overtime and the outlet nose weakens and then you're in a lot of trouble if that thing breaks off inside of the housing.  I'm going up to look at an Auburn on Thursday.  I've always wanted to have a car with a Lycoming engine.  If that works out my 63 may be up for sale.  We'll see.

Take care,

Ken

Just to add a couple of comments, any 5/8" heater hose with a good dogleg bend can be used to replace the original heater hose.  The 19037 is a good substitute hose (longer than you need), but there are others. I have inserted a picture of the original 148 2129 5/8" inlet hose and the 147 9723 outlet hose. It would be really nice if we could find the original hose with the 3-ribbed section on either side.  A good substitute for the short fat return pipe to water pump is the Gates 20333 hose. 

Below is the picture of the original hoses at the firewall. Note while these were the original hoses with the correct original part #'s someone had substitured the more common modern worm gear clamp at some time. While these give a great fit, they leave a deep impression on the hoses and you can pretty much never get a Corbin or Tower Clamp to give a snug fit, due to this impression, after worm gear clamps have been used and new hoses are needed to get a tight fit. I found this out the hard way when I 1st decided to replace my radiator hoses with the Tower Clamps. The deep impressions pretty much left my radiator hoses useless and had to get new ones.

Also, the heater hosed were routed 2 ways in 1964: 1st with the 3/4 metal return pipe under the intake and water valve on the valve cover, and later both were moved to RH inner fender. See illustration below.

Finally, On clamps I have found all the original looking hose clamps at the firewall heater inlet and outlet hose, and water valve to be Single Wire Corbin Clamps, as seen in illustration below. Corbin Clamps are a type of "spring" clamp, but the ones used back at the firewall were definitely Corbin type spring clamps.

Corbin Spring Clamp:

Example regular Spring Clamp:

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