Good Morning all! 

I took the 64 into the shop to have some adjustments completed and in the process decided to have the lower ball joints replaced as was recommended the last time I had it in. I ordered the parts and came into the shop. They quoted me nearly $500 to replace those lower ball joints requiring nearly 4hrs of labor. Now this is a reputable shop and they know me by name here and they will continue to get my business. I am just questioning what on earth is involved in changing these out. I figured it’d be a simple press in, press out. Especially for a tire shop who specializes in this stuff. Anyhow, is this something I could do at home with a press? Truth be told-they we’re not able to go back that far in the system to get the labor rate for the ball joints and used a 70 cadillac for the reference.

Thanks again all! 


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Comment by Logan Robb on May 11, 2024 at 11:25pm

Its been a moment since I have priced out a kit, but when I did, the quality seems to be reputable from the reivews. And yes, to Jasons point, all the parts are going to be repops these days. 

Occasionally, you will see people on hear asking for NOS parts to replace on their vehicles. I commend them for the pursuit. But for me, I drive my Fleetwood about 2500 miles per season, so drivability is more important that perfect show car. 

Comment by Jason Edge on May 6, 2024 at 10:54pm

Unless you can find NOS parts all of these suspension and steering components are going to be "reproduction". GM has probably not made (or contracted through their original producers/suppliers) in 50 years. I bought mine from Kanter way way back and was very pleased. 

Comment by Nile Bolen on May 6, 2024 at 10:44pm

this string is informative.  I need to rebuild my front end--loosey goosey is an understatement.  I saw that Jason Edge commented that he bought one of those "deluxe kits":  upper and lower ball joints, upper control arms with bushings, lower control arm bushings, stabilizer link kits, outer tie rod ends, inner rod ends, tie rod sleves, sway bar bushings, idler arm...the works.  The ones I'm seeing are "reproduction".  was yours too?  quality ok?  I'm seeing kits sold by Caddy Daddy.  thanks,  Nile Bolen 1964 deville conv

Comment by Jason Edge on May 13, 2023 at 4:59pm

ps. I have tried to prevent anyone from posting blogs and instead using the forums way back, but since we have help pages as blogs, and there are back door ways to get in it is what it is. If anyone is posting anything new, use the forums.

Comment by Jason Edge on May 13, 2023 at 4:58pm

The are the same for all the 1963 and 1964 body styles (other than 75 series and CC), although there are two version of the upper control arm that are not body style specific. There are 1 1/2" and 1 7/16" versions. The measurement is regarding the upper control arm shaft outer sleeve and need to know which one you need when you order these control arm shaft bushings. Most are 1 1/2"  that I have seen.  Here is a picture measuring one with a caliper showing 1.5" for reference:


Comment by Logan Robb on May 13, 2023 at 3:21pm

Kurt-I understand now! Thanks for clarifying.

Comment by Kurt on May 13, 2023 at 3:20pm

The reason there is no reply option is that this is a blog post not a discussion. You can only add comments to blogs.

Comment by Logan Robb on May 13, 2023 at 3:15pm

Jason-Not sure why there is no reply button so I can replay directly to your comment

I do think you've got the right idea. Just replacing everything in one shot. That being said-are there any differenced in front end components between the different models for 64? I am not including Series 75 and CC chassis and those are almost always different. I just want to ensure there isn't any Fleetwood specific part or if any from Series 62Thru Eldo will work. 



Comment by Jason Edge on May 12, 2023 at 6:57am

Logan, If your budget permits and if the other items have not been replaced, I might suggestion replacing All suspension items, especially regarding the front control arms. I guess 15 years or so I bought a deluxe kit with everything (upper & lower ball joints, upper control arm shafts kits with bushings, upper & inner bushings, tie rods, tie strut bushings, stabilizer/sway bar link kits, idler arm and center link) and had it all installed by reputable local shop and had the front end aligned. My car when from "loosey goosey" to one fingered driving anywhere on bias ply tires! Back then I think I invested about $1500 and would guess it would be more like $2500 now but that was the best money I every spent! Every time I drive the car I am thankful I spent that money.
As it has been explained, installing those ball joints requires disassembly and removing the coil spring and it would be a good time to at least go ahead and replace both upper and lower ball joints and all upper and lower control arm and control arm shaft bushings. If you are on a tight budget (aren't we all) and you are just trying to replace a failing item I understand and think the $500 for a turn key job is fair. If you are really wanting to save money, if you remove the lower control arm yourself I bet that cost would go way down.  For me it was just easier to suck it up, get all new steering and suspension parts, get the front end aligned and enjoy the new driving experience without having to worry about piece-mealing the the other suspension components.

Comment by Logan Robb on May 11, 2023 at 11:44pm

Russ, I think I may have accidentally deleted your comment. 

I suppose I didn’t realize how involved the process was. Seems straight forward, but lots of steps. I appreciate the answer certainly! I would agree after your answer, the labor seems like a deal. I just wasn’t expecting that and postponed the repair. 

If someone can chime in on how to get your comment back, that would be great as well! 



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