1963 Pertronix III installation

[Kenneth M Karrer]

Hello,

      I was helping a CLC friend with some of his cars last week and as I was driving his 55 coupe to another location it hesitated, stalled and quit running.  I thought it was out of gas, but it turned out that there was sufficient fuel so we hauled her back and I went to my next guess which was condenser failure.  Turned out I was right and we fired her right up after replacing that D60..  This prompted me to get a Pertronix III and install it in my 63 series 62 convertible as soon as I got back to Texas.  I've installed many of the Pertronix ignition systems in the past and of late a few of the III series, but because this car is a low mileage original (only 34k miles) and it is my intent to drive it, but also to show it in next year's (if it happens)  Primary and Preservation Classes at Grand Nationals, I wanted to take some extra care as I installed the new system.  Naturally I checked in here and saw a number of posts and some great advice and guidance from Jason, but I'd like to add a couple of things.  First, I'd definitely say that you'll want to mark and remove the distributor, not just because they all need some cleaning, lube, and painting at some point, but because when you route the wires for the new system, you really have to route them through the bottom of the distributor and that time you'll want to replace the old grommet. Just remember to maintain your placement marks when you clean up that distributor or you can have a tough time getting things back together in their proper order.  The only other way to do this is to drill a hole in the distributor window and put the grommet there and route the wires though it, but that looks pretty janky.  Next, you can push a "fish wire" though the harness feed in the middle, upper part of the firewall (engine side) and use it to pull a brown wire (to mimic the look of the original resistor wire) through and back out to the engine compartment.  Now you can fish another wire through the black insulation covering the feed wires to the coil and distributor.  It's best to start at the proximal (coil) end.  Use this fish wire to pull though your new brown wire which will be the wire that will replace the resistor wire. You'll need about 2 feet of wire to extend out on the inner firewall side which is what we'll tackle next.  After disconnecting your battery, remove the lower steering column cover (just a few bolts and 3 or 4 phillips screws).  This will expose the ignition key switch and the pink ignition wire.  You'll need to tap into that pink wire with your new, brown wire.  There are several easy ways to do this.  Now you can replace that lower column cover and go back outside to the distributor/coil area.  You now remove the resistor wire at the coil and cut off or otherwise remove its "u" connector on the the wire's end. Just in case you want to return the system to original at some point, fold that wire back onto the black insulation covering the ignition feed wires and tape it with electrical tape. You can also remove it completely, but cutting it and shrink tubing it at the firewall and then use it as a fish wire for your new brown wire.  Slide some black shrink tubing onto all of the wires to be used in connecting the system (There are 3, the new brown and the red and black ones from the Pertronix).  You'll want to use this to cover the red or blue crimp connectors that most of us use on the ends of our wiring connections. Now it's just a matter of following the instructions that come with the system and doing a little electrical taping, reconnect the battery, and you're good to go. Be sure to check your timing per the shop manual when you're finished. 5 degrees btdc is about right, but you might want a little more advance.  Be sure get the idle right and remove the vacuum advance feed at the vacuum advance module and plug it as you set the timing.  #1 cyclinder is at the driver's side front.  In my case, I didn't use the new Pertronix coil which is supposed to optimize the system as I wanted to maintain as much originality as possible.  Also, according to the guys at Pertronix and according to my experience, the system will work if you just use the original resistor wire as a power source, but you'll get a full 12 volts instead of 9 or so if you tap into the pink wire.  I've installed about a dozen of these Pertronix systems (I, II, and III) in the Cadillacs (41-69) that I've restored and I've never had one fail to perform, but the system III is the best and easiest to install. I hope that some of you will find this helpful.

Here's something else of interest that I've NEVER encountered before.  This 63 was running great, but when I removed the distributor and cap to access and remove the points and condenser, I found that there was NO Condenser!  I've been working on cars for over 40 years and I still can't figure this one out. 

Happy Motoring!

Ken Karrer

CLC CenTex Reg. Dir.

[Kenneth M Karrer]

Yes, you're right about the benefits of the coil switch and I usually do that and just get rid of the cheesy label and so some painting, but I'm really trying to keep the externals of this car as correct as possible.  This car is an early 63 model so it has the flip top windshield washer reservoir and a ruddy brown AC Delco ignition coil.  I've seen them black, dark blue, and brown.  Also the diameter of the Pertronix coil and script is a bit different from the oem.  I need to get my own copy of the authenticity manual for this car.  I have the 30's, 40's, and 50's, but not the one for the early 60's cars. Unfortunately my convertible boot cover has shrunk over the years and I'm going to have to get another one made (basildon green is tough to find so far).  Other than that from the paint, to the interior,top, carpet and drive train, this car is original.

Thanks,

Ken

[Jason Edge]

I've got the Flamethrower III coil in the stock bracket. It is a tight squeeze but will fit. Loosen the two 1/2" hex head bolts that screw into the intake and you can squeeze the two sides together a bit so the screw will reach the side to tighten around the coil. From the 52 parts cars I have pulled in the original looking coils were all stamped 132 and appeared to have a black canister and brown top ... both often badly faded are black paint peeling like in the 1st picture from a 32K mile 1964 donor car or just faded as in the 2nd picture from a 73K mile 1963 donor car. Since I doubt I would ever find a like new coil stamped 132 with the correct black and brown, the all black Pertronix III is close enough and something I know if I were judging I would not knock any parts off for originality. Now the Corvette peeps would be looking for that 132 stamping! LOL