Hello, and thanks for adding to group!
I am restoring 1964 429 engine which I bought as dismantled. It is said to be smoking in driving and has been stored as parts for a year. It is most probably 65500 miles driven. Car was not driven for10 years.
The only damaged part found so far is the top of exhaust valve of cylinder #5. The top has been worn so much that the rocker has been pressing valve locks as well. Respective rocker is worn as well, much more than others. And exhaust rocker #6 is worn as well, and exhaust #8.
1. What damage could this cause? I can think that valve lift gets a bit smaller than it should, but so what?
2. Is that common for Cadillac 429 exhaust valves to worn from the top, especially cylinders #5 and #6? Maybe there is less oil.
This is my first V8 engine project. I have Shop manual. I plan to replace piston rings, all gaskets, nylon timing gear, some worn exhaust valves and rockers, and valve stem o-rings. Bearings, pistons and shafts are in good condition.
Big thanks in advance!
I taped thread and screwed Grade 8 bolts in those holes and cut out with my initial Carb & Intake project. Click this link and scroll down and you will see the picture below inserted below link: https://6364cadillac.ning.com/forum/topics/edelbrock-1406-1411-inst...
Just to note this intake also had the front primaries ported (enlarged) to match the butterfles on the Edelbrock 1411.. so it might look a bit odd compared to a stock intake.
Finally I noticed that original choke will work even if I block the exhaust passage. I made threads to intake manifold and put bolts there.
The first time I removed the carb on my 62 390 I found the front of the intake manifold full of exhaust debris to the point that you could not see there were two heat holes on both sides ( completely plugged up ) of the front intakes channel
I clean it all up and opened the two heat holes
Doing that had a major change in the way the car ran especially effecting the idle making it as smooth as glass once again —in a very short time after start up,
I think warming the carb fairly quickly helps to smooth out the engines idle performance —- especially in a cold environment which I was in then living in NY at that time ( nasty winters at times )
It was 4 degrees yesterday
Keeping the carb and it’s base colder will have the effect of keeping the gasoline more dense - therefore making the mixture slightly richer than it would otherwise be as the carb will warm —but more slowly
Having done a lot of hot rodding regarding cooling the carb down and the entire engines temp on my race car engine to 160 degrees and running a container with copper coils in it before the carb so the fuel line could be iced down was one of the things I did to it
The end result is a very slight increase in performance in my own opinion and even less when applied to our Cadillac engines
The idle will be a bit more choppy ( for a lack of a better word ) as the carb takes longer for the base to heat up and you loose some of the idle smoothness that otherwise would be available more quickly
Our Cadillac engines are not high performance engines just because they have a large engine displacements
Just low RPM torque monsters that I myself find do not take as well to hot Rodding and are amazing engines as they are designed to do what they were designed to do in our luxury Cadillacs
I did choose to leave my intake manifold and carb arrangement completely stock for the above reasons when considering making any changes to it
There is a lot of my own experience and opinion in this post —-having done a lot more work with the subject than many in my 1/8 mile drag racing Super Stock record holding days
It is your Cadillac so do what you feel you need to do to have the engine run the way you chose
The drive train in my 64 convert is — Perfection to me —for a luxury ride and not something I choose to be altering in any way and the reason the car is still in my garage turn key and ready to go since it came off the showroom floor late 1963
I do have an Edelbrock 1406 carb with an electric choke ( closet to stock ) on my 429 but —consider that a stock carb as it is so very much the same as the original stock Carter carb design except for a larger Venturi and an added vacuum port on the front of the carb that will change your current ignition advance timing to produce a bit more horse power
Got Rochester rebuilt so next task to check TH400 condition. Two bolts from extension housing were so corroded that they broke when opening, otherwise no damages yet. O-ring in filter was not properly in place, and was cut actually. Modulator is not holding vacuum so need to be replaced. Governor valve is stuck, I hope cleaning will solve that.
I will clean all parts and replace gaskets, and other parts if necessary. Oil was very clean and red inside but I think oil has been changed or added not long time ago.
I can see that 64 is slightly different from 79 which I repaired year ago.
May I suggest that you start a new tread about the trans rebuild you will be doing so that this tread does not get to long and the info is all condensed into one place that will go into our library of info
Knowing very little about trans repair I am very interested in your repair and progress
I will enjoy learning and absorbing what I can about you trans rebuild as you work thru your turbo trans project
Slowly 429 and TH400 are getting close the big moment when they will be married together with adapter ring before moving to their final home in the Engine Bay. From pile of bolts which came with the car I found some potential candidates for connection. There are 6 similar bolts + another set of 6 a bit longer bolts.
Question: should I use the longer bolts between TH400 and the ring, or between the ring and the engine?
To me it seems that both lenghts will work in both places, but of course I would like to use correct length.
Any idea anyone?
A very exciting time keeps us posted on the progress
I cannot help with the bolt length question