Hello, and thanks for adding to group!

I am restoring 1964 429 engine which I bought as dismantled. It is said to be smoking in driving and has been stored as parts for a year. It is most probably 65500 miles driven. Car was not driven for10 years.

The only damaged part found so far is the top of exhaust valve of cylinder #5. The top has been worn so much that the rocker has been pressing valve locks as well. Respective rocker is worn as well, much more than others. And exhaust rocker #6 is worn as well, and exhaust #8.
Then questions:
1. What damage could this cause? I can think that valve lift gets a bit smaller than it should, but so what?
2. Is that common for Cadillac 429 exhaust valves to worn from the top, especially cylinders #5 and #6? Maybe there is less oil.

This is my first V8 engine project. I have Shop manual. I plan to replace piston rings, all gaskets, nylon timing gear, some worn exhaust valves and rockers, and valve stem o-rings. Bearings, pistons and shafts are in good condition. 

Big thanks in advance!

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Thanks Jan, good point! It is hollow for a reason.

I am using roll pins as a dowel. 

i need these guide pins as well, can you give details on where you found them? What size they were. It looks to me like they are .010" under a 1/2"

Hi Rick

I used 1/2 inch roll pins which is pressed when pushing to hole. They sit very tight.

I have not yet completed engine rebuild but I don`t see any reason why it would not work.

this is what i was looking at also. i found a local hardware store that has them. crossing my fingers. thank you

Bits and pieces are finding their places slowly. Big thanks to Jason for support. 
i am getting concerned if my 1000 lbs engine stand will survive the build up. Compressor and water pump installed it is getting a bit wobbly. Still balancer, fuel pump, exhaust manifold, oil etc to add.


Looks great Matti. I know what you mean about the wobbly engine stand. You can put a 2X4 or 4X4 between the engine and the stand for more support. It will keep the stand from flexing every time it is moved.


Very nice tip and illustration to be solving his problem 


It is my first time installing engine to car and I plan as follows:

- transmission and engine installed together

- front of the car raised with stands 6-8 inches on garage floor

- engine without compressor, fan, intake manifold

- strong engine hoist with leveller to enable tilting of the package

- hoist chain fixed to intake manifold bolts, 2 front, 2 rear
- radiator removed, protection for stuff under the hood, hood removed

- new motor mounts front and rear

Any other points to take into account?

probably goes without saying, but as I am the king of F U;s.  make sure when you move he engine while on the hoist you dont push too hard on the top end or push from bottom to fast...in my endeavor last year, when pulling he old one out, wo trans, the bottom of the lift slipped out from under the engine while it was hanging and the whole dame thing fell over, dropping engine into the bay.  had to get a tractor to come pull the dame thing out,  didnt damage anything in the bay, but did scrap a fender,,,

Thanks Ken

I am expecting something similar during my project.

I refurbished the original carburator with Hygrade rebulld kit. Parts were in good condition, not much wear.

I want to keep original choke so I do not block exhaust gas channel in intake manifold. But I would like to block the openings in insulator plate. There is gas channel already in manifold so there should not be any need to let gases to get close to carb itself and to make it too hot. Any ideas how to block those gas channels in insulation plate? JBWeld? Or is it bad idea?



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