Need some expert advice. A few days ago I lost all power window operation. Upon further investigation I found that the red power wire was severed in the door hinge area where they are common to breaking. I also found others that were close to being broke. Repaired the red one first and all windows operated except the passenger side door. (I replaced the motor in that window a little over a year ago and it had worked until I lost power to all of them). I went ahead and repaired the wires that were close to breaking but that did not change anything as far as the passenger front window operating. Whenever I operate the window button on either the master control panel on the drivers side or the button on the front passenger door I can hear clicking as if a relay is operating and the door courtesy lights will dim so pretty sure I am getting power there but no window function. I just find it strange that it quit working after the main power wire was severed, but all others work fine once that repair was made. I did find a green wire hanging down under the dash next to the steering column, but it was hanging down before this issue arose. I never could figure out where it belonged, but it looks as if it had broken at one time. (I am attaching a couple of photos of that wire to get some input also. That wire comes out of a connector that has a white wire coming out of both ends and the green out of just one side) Probably two unrelated situations but thought I would see if anyone can provide some answers on either one and/or what to check next. Thanks, Doug
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Hi Dan, Thanks for the comment regarding my passenger side power window problem. I finally traced it to a dead spot on the window motor. Tapped it with a hammer and it started working and has worked fine ever since. I will eventually need to replace the motor as it will stop working once it hits that dead spot again, but I will save replacing the motor until I am looking for a winter project. I also had a number of brittle wires in the door hinge area and one which was the main power source wire that had completely severed. I repaired all of those wires while I was trouble shooting.
Thanks Tim...sounds like they are practically new when you are done with them.
Sometimes just cleaning them out like that can bring them back to life. I've gotten a couple going that obviously had some water inside also. What type of grease do you use?. I've been using white lithium grease lately but think I'm going back tot he high temp, high pressure wheel bearing "cup" grease I had used for years.
Russ. Are you physically rebuilding the internal motors or just pulling the top gear out cleaning the cavity and regreasing? If rebuilding what are you doing when you pull the top case off, remove the retainers and get the motor assembly out? I've had a couple of them pulled apart and saw burnt brushes, worn rotor, etc, but do not have parts to physically rebuild the motors. If Tim Groves see's this I would be curious as to what he is doing to "rebuild" these.
Russ, I didn't pick up on the fact you rebuilt the motors. I thought you only regreased the top gear cavity as I do. What do your charge for the rebuild motors? If you need some non-working cores any time let me know.
Dan, Cadillac Tim (Groves) is most well know for the series of AC/Heat Comfort control diagnostic and trouble shooting manuals however like many of us he is into many things. Here is his contact info as poste on our Parts Suppliers page: http://cadillactim.com/page1.html
Cardone is a reputable rebuilder and I know some parts stores used them as a supplier. I have sent brake booster and master cylinders out to them in the past to be rebuilt for customers. As far as I know they were very leased. Keep in mind we have an in house rebuilder here with Cadillac Tim Groves (tagroves@wctel.net). I would contact him first. Of course if you just want a good used, bench tested one with new grease in the top gear cavity I have several VG strong tested, and cleaned ones ready to go for $30 + s/h.
Thank you all for your thoughts/advice on the power window motor. The motor is only about a year old (purchased as a new unit, so probably one of the Chinese made ones). I have checked all electrical contacts and everything there has checked out okay. I think the motor is just beginning to faili. Took car to car show today and window worked fine all day. If it is like the one I replaced, it will work fine until it stops on that dead spot and then won't work until it is tapped with a hammer or the door slammed hard enough that it wiggles the motor off the dead spot. I am going to wait a while and see how it performs. If it stops again, I will replace it, this time with a rebuilt/remanufactured unit and not a new one.
Unless I am misreading Doug's original post, he replaced this motor a year ago. I believe on the chat he said he had bought a new one so I doubt caked up grease would be a problem. I would make sure the connector to the window motor is making good contact by roughing up the metal a bit with some sand paper or small file. If it is a new motor he may have just picked up a dud. There was discussion on the chat how most of these new ones are now made in China which are not the same quality as the original motors so a good used one that had been cleaned and regreased, or better yet a rebuild original might be a better option.
Well I took the door panel apart today to get a better look at the inoperable window situation. All wiring checked out okay. Tapped window motor with a hammer a few times and window started operating. Looks like I have a motor with a dead spot. Anyway at least for now I have four functioning windows until it stops on that dead spot again. I will replace the window motor in the near future. Thank you everyone for your advice. It helped me narrow the problem down until I found it.
ps... I sell strong, bench tested window motors with top gear cavity cleaned and regreased for $30. I had been selling them for $25 but my stock is getting low and see the prices going way up for these "Chinese Clones"...so will adjust up a bit. .
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